Lifting a 97 Jeep Wrangler

I recently bought a 97 Jeep Wrangler with 97,000 miles on it from an older lady who took very good care of it, had a folder full of maintenance records and the Jeep's engine, body and interior were all in excellent condition ( worn top only bad thing).

I want to lift it so i can fit 31" 11.50 tires on it and have more room for off-roading. I want to do it myself and save money (except tire mounting).

I took it to a 4x4 lift shop that was recommended to me from several people and the owner was very knowledgeable and broke everything down for me on what we could do and what would neeed to be done with certain lifts.

The total cost for a 4" superlift 31" 12.50 BFG tires 15x10 M/T rims and a cold air intake and new steering stabilizer was a little over $4,000. He suggested that I not go with 33" tires because of the re- gearing that would have to be done, that cost more and with it only being a 4 cyl to much power loss. Also said for off-roading 31" are perfect so no rub during major articulation occurs. He has a massive Excursion with a 10" lift and only has 33"s on his, and has 2 Wranglers lifted that all run 31"s, so I trust him.

I was thinkng of not putting to much money into it because of the amount of miles on it. I was thinking a 2" spacer lift, new steer stabilizer. What are good kits for this I've searched Quadratec and most seem to be the same, but I was wondering when I saw a Procomp 2' lift for $299 that replaces the coil springs and shocks as opposed to adding spacers on the coil springs.

Has anyone done this lift before? I have seen alot of post on the spacer lift, not the Procomp lift. And is a coil suppression needed when taking them off?

Thanks for any help.

Well, got good news for ya, you can safely put 31x10.5" tires on it now and enjoy!

That extra inch wide lowers the traction and costs new rims and a lift.

You also can go with a cheap 2" spacer lift for the springs and get 2" longer shocks and bump stops and have tons of clearance with a 'stock' suspension.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > I recently bought a 97 Jeep Wrangler with 97,000 miles on it from an

Scott:

I have a 97 TJ as well and I put a 2 inch spacer lift on it recently. Right now I'm just running 30s, but you have no idea how much better 2 inches looks. Anyways, If I were you I'd consider the spacer lift. The upside: it's cheap. The downside: it makes the vehicle a little bit rougher driving down the road. I don't really mind this because hey...It's a jeep! not a cadillac. I didn't buy new shocks either. I bought shock extenders from Rocky Road Outfitters, 44 bucks for 4 and you can use your old shocks. Of course, if ride quality is an issue for you, you can spend a bit more and buy 2 inch longer shocks, as well as 2 inch longer springs. It'll be a little smoother down the road, but you have to spend more money. You can fit 31s on there now, but you have to change around your steering stops. If you lift it 2 inches you'll be able to fit up to 32s, making your 31s fit perfectly. I plan on eventually running 32s when my current tires wear out. A lot of people don't replace the steering stabalizer with a 2 inch lift, I don't really see how its necessary.

Spacers alone do not make the ride rougher. Stiffer springs and shocks will, as well as adding too much air to your tires.

tw

well mine did...sue me

Spacers alone do not make the ride rougher. Stiffer springs and shocks will, as well as adding too much air to your tires.

97tjMike wrote:

Then you put your lift on improperly. Have someone who knows what they are doing check your work. It is physically impossible to change the spring rate by adding spring spacers. Counter sue me.

97tjMike wrote:

I can't see how 'your' spacers changed the stock ride unless something is wrong. I have installed them and 'not' had the issues.

Are you 'sure' your shocks are set right and are not limiting the travel? Did you also put in the extended bumpstops with the spacers?

If the shocks can limit the travel by being the wrong length or because of missing bumpstops, you 'will' break something.

I have seen shocks snapped off, I have seen shocks punched through the floor into the back seat, I have seen frames snap where the shock mounts all because of improper length shocks.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

97tjMike wrote:

When I put on the Skyjacker 2"spacer lift the shocks that come with will be the proper size right?

Where do the bump stops go?

Which shocks are better Gas or Hydraulic?

Yes, the shocks should be the proper size. The brand/type of shock will determine how much stiffer your ride will be. Which is better is subjective and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. The bumpstops are the rubber pieces located in the center of your coil springs. They just pull off and you insert the new ones.

Scott wrote: > When I put on the Skyjacker 2"spacer lift the shocks that come with

If you get everything as a kit, the shocks should be right. The bumpstops go in the center of the spring on those.

I think a soft normal hydraulic shock is best. Jeeps are too light for gas charged ones.

Mike

Hi Scott,

4wheelcustoms.com has a 2.25" spacer kit for around $80. Their complete kit with shocks is a little pricey ($225) I purchased Skyjacker hydros separately for about $32 each. Front H7016, Rear H7018. Nitros are a bit more money and will not give as nice a road ride but will take a harder pounding. My install took around 4 hours, but I had to run out and get a spring compressor and beer. Ride is as good as stock, and no driveline vibes. Start hosing your bolts down with penetrating oil before you order parts.

When we did it, we managed to make the springs fall out when we unhooked the sway bar, no need for a spring compressor.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

You don't need a spring compressor to do this job, but icing down beer is a good idea (although I always wait until the job is done). Don't forget to re-align your front end after the installation because your toe WILL be out.

tw

I only think his steering wheel drag link will be out. I don't think the toe gets tagged on the solid axle lift.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

This was on an '06 Rubicon with around 1500 miles. The springs had not settled yet. Also, rumor has it that the Rubicon springs are longer or at least that is what ebay'ers claim. Either case I could not get the front end to open up enough.

You can do it. Jack up the opposite side of the axle to push the side you're working on down. You need to do some disconnecting, but whatever you disco, it's easier than dealing with those spring compressors!

tw

Sure it does. It won't be a lot on the 2" spacer lift, but it will be enough to chew up the tires over a month or so. It is even worse on a 4+ lift. In fact, it's pretty undriveable until you set the toe. It will walk like Michael Jackson. But yes, you need to reset the drag link too!

tw

Mike, here's a pic that should illustrate, it's an XJ but it's virtually identical to the TJ. The tie rod doesn't go from knuckle to knuckle, it is connected to the drag link inboard of the pass side knuckle, and the drag link end is connected to the knuckle. If you lift the suspension, you increase the drag link angle, which will give you excessive toe-in.