Looking to buy

Looking to buy a wrangler in the 89-95 year range. Anything to watch out for? Any years to stay away from? Any must have options? At some point I plan to do a frame-off rebuild if that matters.

Thanks

Reply to
lovs2fly
Loading thread data ...

Reply to
RoyJ

I bought an 89 with the "dreaded" Carter carb. I've had it a 1.5 years and it's run great after I got rid of the emissions stuff. My mileage is close or the same as the 4.0L. considering the price difference between the carb equipped and EFI, I think im ahead. If it's going to be a daily driver I really dont see the advantage. There are lots of great tweaks for the 4.2L. For me thats half the fun. I've enjoyed being able to work on it.

Reply to
Pi-Eyed Piper

Reply to
RoyJ

If you are thinking manual, go for a 94 or 95 - they have an external hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.

I think 94 1/2 and 95's have bigger U-joints in some places compared to previous years, also.

-jd

lovs2fly wrote:

Reply to
jdarg
1994 got an external clutch slave cylinder. This is nice, if you ever have to replace it. I don't know the years, but my 1995 has factory undercoating and galvanized sheet metal. There is a heavy-duty rear axle option, the Dana 44, that many people here like. The opinion expressed is, that the standard D35C is weak for the six cylinder engine and off road use. Some people here say that the later AX15 transmission is a lot better than earlier offerings, such as the AX5 and Peugeot. This is only for the six cylinder engine. The four cylinders came with the AX5, which seems to be adequate for use with that engine.

Why do you want to do a frame-off rebuild? Lots of Wranglers that you may find in this year range, won't need it for years to come. I have had my

1995 since it was new, 70,000 miles, and it barely looks used. Runs good too. Another option is to build one from scratch, using parts, including the frame, that are available from aftermarket manufacturers. Check the mail order houses for more information.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

At least your rebuild is only 20 bucks for the kit and an hour or so of soaking/spraying.

If the OP is comfortable around carbs and tune ups, then the 258 is a nice engine. If not, I second the FI in the later ones as a better buy.

The 258 has a longer stroke and tons of low rpm torque and that carb can be made to behave with a little TLC and a kit come tune up time. It gets better mileage than the 4.0 also.

The OP needs to watch for rust around the body mounts and frame tails.

I find that most vehicles have been driven to the limits of their modifications which causes a lot of wear and tear, so the more stock the better.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

RoyJ wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

"Mike Romain" wrote

*snip*

: I find that most vehicles have been driven to the limits of their : modifications which causes a lot of wear and tear, so the more stock the : better.

Mike, That is best explanation I have ever seen for that. After years and years of building, modding and driving different types of vehicles I never quite found the words to explain to someone this exact theory, which in my opinion is right on target

Kate

2O|||||||O5 Liberty
Reply to
SVTKate

When I see a car that has been hopped up or a 4x4 with big tires my first thoughts are that the previous owner was a teenage boy.

Reply to
Billy Ray

Reply to
RoyJ

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.