phooey. :P

Ding, Ding, Ding...we have a winner. The shift forks are toast. I've got the stupid Chilton's manual for my Jeep which, in this case is next to useless. I already know how to get the damn thing in and out of the Jeep, which is all it covers. Since there's only like 4 or 5 of us left on this group, maybe one of you can answer this. Are there nylon pads on both forks? I can see the remainder of some nylon on the range fork, but on the mode fork the flange has pretty much departed the fork and ended up on the magnet. Ah, well, off to Ebay.

I've got the FSM here somewhere. If I can find it, I'll scan you a copy of the diagrams. I can't remember just where those pads were. I didn't pay much attention other than a quick look at the general condition as I was changing the input shaft and bearings when I had it apart but I do remember looking at those plastic pads - where ever they were.

I'd appreciate the diagrams, might help during re-assembly. Reply to address is a good one. I was researching the forks and it appears that there are supposed to be pads on both forks. Looking at Quadratec I might acutally be able to get the forks cheaper there than on Ebay. One of them depends on the actual t/case number and I was too lazy to walk back out to the shop. I'll probably get a rebuild kit also and change out all the bearings while I'm in here. They all felt fine and looked good, but they do have 300k miles on 'em.

stupid Chilton's manual for my Jeep which, in this

I've always thought of the Chilton's as just enough information to get into real trouble.

I don't have a service manual back that far except these.

I *think* there are pads on both as well, but not 100% sure. At least on the Hummer H1 tcase, there are pads on both forks (the pads are different for each fork, however, but I suspect you know that...)

And, you got 300K on them? Holy crap, that's amazing!

That second one is exactly what I need. Thanks, Doug. Means I won't have to work off fax copies of photocopies of paper books from our sister dealership.

I ran into the part # problem when I swapped the input shaft in mine. I went from the BA 10/5 to and AX15 which uses a different spline so I hat to swap the shafts. I got the new input from a yard in Oklahoma that specializes in Jeeps and spent quite a while with their tech trying to find the right shaft. Seems that NP used at least 2 different gear cuts. Long story short, the first one was the wrong one and it howled like a banshee when I started down the road. Guys sent me 3 shafts and talked me thru checking the gear wear patterns with Prussian Blue to get the right one (about like setting up a new ring gear/pinion). Once past that it was smooth sailing.

I still haven't located that manual but it's here somewhere. I'll try and get it to you tonight.

That's exactly what I have so I'll hold off on sending the copies unless you need them. Holler if you need more info I might be able to get you.

Any chance this is the same for a '97 TJ?

83-96 XJ, so it's down to seeing if the parts cross. I have an 03 TJ FSM but it's probably too far the other way.

I put it in 4LO in the snow, got a few feet, heard a noise, stopped and put it back in 4HI. It whines in 2HI and I've got 91K on it. I'm due. I don't think my mechanic wants to deal with it. He quoted me $1500.

BTW, since I don't like the sound of chain grinding in/out of 4LO, I put the transmission in neutral, stop the engine, then shift the xfer case. Let me know if this is a good idea or not.

4lo will make noises especially if the tires have any traction. That's a part-time range. As for the whine, is the unit low on fluid? If you remove the top plug the fluid should just be at the bottom of the hole. If it's not then just add a bit of ATF fluid to bring it up. Dexron-III (check with the dealership to be sure)

I generally shift the transmission to neutral, stop motion, then shift. Although my xfr is the quadratrack and you can shift it (very quickly) between 4hi and 4lo while in motion. It just makes noise as the gears mesh.

I looked at a Chevy S-10(they also use the NP231 t/case)factory manual, and the interior breakdown appears identical, so the disassembly and assembly instructions should be the same. Some parts may be physically different, though, but since the service manuals don't give actual part numbers you ought to be able to take the diagram to the dealer and get what you need. The problem I'm running into is that I need part # 49 in the 231 diagram and there seem to be 2 versions of it based on the 8 digit number on the tag rivited to the back of the case. Of course *everyone* has the one that won't fit mine.