I would like to do a flush and fill of the power steering system. I was thinking of draining the old, then using ATF fluid to do a flush (so fill it and then drive around the farm for 1/2 hr) then draining and putting in the right powersteering fluid in. Question: What is the right power steering fluid? And does my plan sound like a good idea?
Is it broken?
I really wouldn't mess with an old one unless it was broke. Pumping air bubbles around with high pressure surges of fluid can do bad things to old seals....
That said, the 4.2 calls for Dexron ATF in the power steering. It should say so on the filler cap. If not, then don't mix the two fluids or you will destroy all the seals for sure.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Scott Smith did pass the time by typing:
Can't answer the question on the proper fluid. I always use what's called for in the service book.
As to flushing it, drain/refill/run/drain/refill/run/etc works A turkey baster comes in handy for draining the reservoir.
When I replaced the return hose in my ZJ, I ran the return line into a bottle and plugged the port on the reservoir, then filled up the reservoir and pumped it through by hand (turned the pump pulley with a stick)
Some folks have put a high flow hydraulic filter in the return line. I've got enough hose in there to do that but haven't gotten around to installing one.
reason why is i find it hard to turn occasionally then it goes away. and then it comes back again few days later. figure the fluid needs a change out.
Belt slippage?
A steering stabilizer shock going bad or a ball joint failing can cause your symptoms.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
I was told by a used car dealer in Redmond, WA that dirty power steering fluid can really be a problem in rack and pinion design front drive cars. He had some method of diverting the return line into a drain container, running the engine, and refilling the reservoir until what came out was clean. He swore by it. He sold a lot of cars too, mostly older, 100,000 mi. plus vehicles where this would be a problem. I figured this guy would know, how many power steering boxes he had replaced, before and after adopting this policy. I bought a couple cars from him, and never had a problem with the power steering in either one.
If you're going to do this, and you can figure out a reasonable method, then I agree that mixing fluids is a bad idea. Just use whatever the standard power steering fluid is, and don't try to drain it all out at once. The fluid is cheap. You can drain the return line, for example, and refill the reservoir repeatedly, without introducing air into the system.
There seem to be a lot of new Jeep owners, with recycled vehicles, in this news group now. They want to do something to the vehicle, anything, that will prolong its life, make it perform better, whatever. There is something to the philosophy, that says that fixing things that are not broken, is a waste of time. Otoh, looking at dirty fluid every time you do a level check can be irritating. (But I lived with jet black motor oil in my Chevy for a year, until I got around to replacing the engine.)
Earle
If you were to siphon the reservoir and refill with new power steering fluid, operate briefly, and repeat several times you would have effectively flushed the system of its old and dirty fluid.
The procedure below is for the initial setup for a new pump but gives sound advise that can be adapted.
CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill.
Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level. The dipstick should indicate COLD when the fluid is at normal ambient temperature.
(1) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes.
(2) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds then turn engine off.
(3) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains constant after running the engine.
(4) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(5) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting the wheel stops at least 20 times.
(6) Check the fluid level add if necessary.
(7) Lower the vehicle, start the engine and turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock.
(8) Stop the engine and check the fluid level and refill as required.
CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for an extended period. This may cause pump damage.
(9) If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the procedure.
that's what I was looking for Billy ray thanks
Those directions are for a 'new' pump. The new pumps use different fluid than the old 4.2L setups.
I recommend you check what is in there. If it is red, 'don't' switch to that expensive Chrysler junk or you will likely blow every seal in the system.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: N>MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.