Rusted on Spare Tire

Jun 09, 2007 16 Replies

HELP!!



I have a1998 Jeep wrangler. I just bought new replacement hinges, but I need to get first get my spare tire off before the hinges can come oof. But my spare tire is rusted on to the tail gate and I have not been able to get it off. I have some WD-40 and some other stuff sprayed on try to get it off. But so far nothing has happened. Does anyone else now what else to do? And yes, I have taken off the lug nuts. Thanks


-Chris



Ok, since tires don't rust, I'm going to try to guess what has happened. You have a steel spare wheel that has bonded via rust to the spare mount that is bolted to your tailgate? You can either unbolt the spare mount from the tailgate, or once the spare wheel has been unbolted, grab the whole wheel/tire combo and twist it like a bottlecap. There is no reason for it to want to stay that badly.

tw

Get out the BFH or a large block of wood and smack it!

I had to use the large block of wood method to free a stuck rotor when it needed replacement. A few good whacks and it came right off!

Put some a$$ behind it. It's only rust...

You need to hit them with a penetrating oil, not a water displacement fluid. PB Blaster will do in 20 minutes what WD40 takes 3 days to soak through. Liquid wrench takes an hour.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Liquid Wrench, a tow strap, and a good sized oak tree should get it off.

Saludos cordiales,

Earle

Good thing you didn't find this problem when you got a flat tire lol. I'm thinking maybe a crow bar will work. You just need something to wedge in there, and long as there's enough clearance.

With WD-40 the key is patience. Spray it on and wait an hour, if that doesn't work, spray on some more and leave it over night, spray again, leave over night again. Usually that will do it.

Thank you for the advice. I will try the wood idea plus the PB as well.

Where should I place the block of wood?

I suppose that you have conductied a ISO study on this and have the data to back up your claims?

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

You may never be able to salvage it if it is the aluminum rim. They can weld themselves to steel from electrolysis if they are put on without antiseize compound.

I have seen a pile of Jeep rims literally peeled in half from this.

Good luck!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Yup, but you have proven yourself not literate enough to either read or understand it, sorry, Stupid assed lying Stalker that you are.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

They are AL rims. But I am not giving up yet. I will keep hitting it with a hammer and block of wood (chisel style). I really do not want to have to buy a new spare tire carrier.

Then PB Blaster will be your friend. Otherwise you are looking at a rim and carrier although you could grind the aluminum off the carrier once the rim has peeled away.

If the spare is that bad, how are the road wheels? They also need antiseize on the mating surfaces only, not the lugs.

Mike

Idiot,when have you ever backed up the bs that you post? Let me help you with this, never.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required