Torque converter going bad?

The guy did. He said the fluid was full but "foamy"

-John

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:

Crossed any deep puddles or creeks lately? Jeep in it's ultimate wisdumb didn't put a high water vent on the transmission, they only put them on the diffs and t-case.

I have seen a lot full of foamy fluid from this. You can drain it and every one I have seen or heard of came back to life. One 1985 tranny had mud in it even and it came back.

Then you can also just have a dirty connection on the TPS. It controls the shifts and they do get dirty. A spray with an electronic contact cleaner on the plug and socket is the best, but WD40 will work in a pinch.

Mike

Well, it's been raining heavy lately and I have driven across my shares of deep puddles. What do I ask the technician to do or check?

Thank!

-John Mike Roma> Crossed any deep puddles or creeks lately? Jeep in it's ultimate

If the fluid is foamy and looks something like a milkshake, you can just pull the dipstick and look to be sure, then a drain and fill is in order with a new filter.

If the fluid is still red and clear but foamy, then I would just clean the plug for the TPS (throttle position sensor) with contact cleaner before spending money. The plug is on the throttle body.

The torque converter could be bad also, but that runs into a lot of money to change so I would try the cheap fixes first.

Mike

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If water and oil emulsion (i.e. what Mike is calling "foamy") is in the torque converter, then you will have to change the fluid, run the engine some, and then change it again, to get all or most of the water out. The torque converter holds approximately half the fluid in the transmission, and as far as I know there is no convenient way to drain it. It would be helpful to have a mechanic, who knows by sight and feel, the difference between water and oil emulsion, and foam caused by overfilling. The foam that Bill is talking about, is air in oil, and should go away as soon as the proper amount of fluid is restored.

Drain and refill of the transmission is much, much cheaper than a rebuild, which would probably be your next step, if the drain and refill does not help. In much of auto repairs, it is wise to try the cheap, easy repairs first. If it doesn't work, you haven't lost much. It it does, you have saved a bundle.

Earle

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:

The only good way to clean it all out is to remove it and compleatly drain the torque converter.

If it's water then draining is the only way.

Of course no one really believes that their transmission needs to be taken apart and rebuilt. Theirs is always the one that will miraculously recover, because they have caught the problem and done something in time. Or, "There really isn't that much water in mine. Two or three changes will fix it." In psychology this is called "denial".

I have seen the process of changing the fluid in a modern, no-drain-fitting torque converter described. It involves a tiny siphon hose and the patience of Job. It is not a reasonable procedure unless you have way more time on your hands than money. When I worked in the Dodge garage I just told the service manager, "Look, this transmission has one of X conditions, where the manual dictates replacing the torque converter. Tell the customer we can't give him any warranty on the job, unless we sell him one." Burnt smelling fluid required a new torque converter. Water in the fluid required a new torque converter. And so on. This is all true, but lots of people try a fluid change first, and many may get a few more miles out of it.

Who are we, to tell people what reality is all about?

Earle

There is no such thing as a "straight V6". You EITHER have a straight 6 or a V6.

HINT It is not a V6.

2 -- you probably need to add fluid --at the very least -- or replace the fluid you have (which is my advice).

I think your first course of action is to get your trans flushed out. I had a transmission flush not long ago, the cost was $70, and it solved lots of problems I was having.

I also have seen folks open the inspection plate and drill a hole into the bottom of the TC. They then threaded it for a plug.

Mike

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:

I can see the point in that. Especially if your going to get the transmission wet frequently. Any bits of metal left over from drilling would be my worry. Guess they flush out easily enough when all the ATF fluid drains all over. :)

Hi:

Then I have a straight 6. What is that/ I know dumb question...

I wil ask him to flush the transmission and see if it helps.

Thanks,

-John

Jeff Strickland wrote:

Sounds like a great excuse to buy one of those right-angle adapters for a drill.

All 6 cylinders are inline front to back, as opposed to a V6 which has two banks of 3 cylinders, each bank forming each side of the "v".

If the cylinders are all in a row it's a straight six, if the engine has three on each side it's a V6 (or if it looks like a V8 missing a couple of cylinders).

Something like this...

Straight six - oooooo

V6 - ooo ooo

V8 - oooo oooo

Jeff DeWitt

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

A ha! Eureka! I have a straight 6. Oh well, for some reason, I think I should know these information, being a man and all.

I'll keep you guys in the loop as to what is going on.

Thanks,

John.

Jeff DeWitt wrote:

They used to put these drain holes in the bottom of the front of the torque converter, i.e. facing towards the front of the vehicle. Some vehicles had an access hole inspection plate where you could get at the plug too. You want to make sure that you don't hit one of the turbine or stator vanes when drilling the hole. Also, it will for sure void any warranty you might have on the part.

Earle

A friend of mine said to try "Lucas Slip Stop" has anyone heard of it?

Thanks,

-John

Earle Hort> They used to put these drain holes in the bottom of the front of the torque