The PCV pipe will work well. If you have a socket large enough, it also will do. I just replaced my wheel bearing and used the old bearing race or cup to pound on to seat the new seal. I would have gone for a chunk of ABS I have kicking around if the race hadn't just been lying there saying 'use me' one more time before the scrap heap.
A chunk of 2x4 also works if the seal sits flush with the case.
When it comes to blown seals, I always wonder 'why' the seal went. I normally think it is a waste of time to just replace an effect, I like to go after the causes too.... Sometimes it was a bad u-joint that took out the seal from vibrating, but there is a bearing or bushing in there too.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Also may I add that I had bought a transfer case rear output seal for my 88 XJ from Autozone. It was worse than the original one. I picked up one from the dealer and it has been working fine. BTW after a discount the factory seal became less expensive than the one from AZ! ;-)
I used a large socket and of course oiled the seal's lip before installation and rechecked the fluid level in the TC.
later, dave AKA vwdoc1
On my Mustang, the slip-yoke output seal went because the tail shaft bushing went out. Check the bushings/bearings when you do the deal. Also, before you replace the seal, try to move the driveshaft from left to right, up and down to check for play. Excessive play indicates wear.
Carl
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