What are these things?

Can you tell me what these are? http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpghttp:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpghttp:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different.

Thanks!

Reply to
Joe
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Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail right?

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure MAT = Manifold Air Temperature

Looks like insulation has failed.

What year/make/model, engine size?

Reply to
DougW

I can't make out number one and two, I can't help you there. The last one is a vacuum reservoir for your HVAC system and other vacuum operated devices.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Newton

Joe, don't know what gives, but when I click on your links it wipes out the newsgroup to all blank in my Netscape newsgroup screen and doesn't tag the Netscape web browser to go to the photo.

I have to close it down and start Netscape again to be stable????

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Joe wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

I have no idea... Try copying the link to another browser? The images are large, that might have something to do with it.

Reply to
Joe

"Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the carb bracket hole. (common problem)"

How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a picture that shows the pin so I get the right part?

Reply to
Joe

Yeah, they are broken links. Use "/", not "\" when typing URLs. Better yet, copy the URL from your browser. The links should be:

formatting link
Now, if I did that right, they should actually work... :)

Reply to
TJim

Sorry mike, it worked fine for me. As pointed out in this thread, it's the "\"s... should be "/".

Reply to
Joe

I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by hand and crank her, she starts right up). At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the ground) would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it should be closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something that closes it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)?

Reply to
Joe

The fixed links worked.

Strange eh.

What are you using for a reader and browser?

I am running Netscape 4.79.

Mike

Joe wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

It is spring loaded closed.

It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring unwinds and opens the choke up.

I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is inside there.

It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really' short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver.

If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at rest by turning the cover....

Mike

Joe wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

reader: outlook express Browser: IE6 IE6 automagically changed them for me...

Reply to
Joe

"I would be thinking the spring has broken." That is what I will check since it seems to be stuck open. Thanks.

Reply to
Joe

Using this:

formatting link
spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)Thanks!

Reply to
Joe

It is not in that drawing.

If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part of this cap.

I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit.

Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine actually is...

Mike

Joe wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Where'd you get your manual choke kit?

Reply to
Joe

Our local auto parts store, Canadian Tire carries them for about $25.00.

They come with a replacement black cap with a lever inside instead of the coil spring and are pretty easy to put on.

It also gives me a 'hand throttle' for keeping the revs up when I am winching. I can give it gas until I get to 1500 or 1800 rpm, pull out the choke, let off the gas and push the choke back in. The gas stays on the fast idle cam at whatever revs I had it until I blip the throttle, then it drops back to normal.

Same for driving away in cold weather, I can just leave it in 1200 rpm or so with some choke until the temp gauge starts to move. Sometimes that is 10 miles later.

Mike

Joe wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

You got it, that is the sucker!

Mike

Joe wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

THANKS! NOW I'll go get greasy! :-)

formatting link
> > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-)> > > > Thanks!

Reply to
Joe

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