YJ error code - rough start

93 YJ, automatic, I6, no A/C rough starts (lots of cranking before turning over), low RPM's at idle (500 - 600) Runs well, sometimes at stops it will 'lug' a bit, I attribute this to the low RPM's.

Error codes shown:

12 - Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. 33 - An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit. 55 - end of diagnostic test

Battery is good. I checked all connections for tightness and did a visual for any damaged wires. Cleaned terminals in the Power Distribution Center and added die-electric grease to relay connections. Verified that all fuses were good in PDC and internal fuse block.

No A/C so 33 should be a mute point.

So error code 12 has me stumped, more so given the fact that electricity is magic to me (once the magic smoke comes out of the component it doesn't work anymore) - any DETAILED tips for troubleshooting this further? What is typical idle RPM?

TIA paul

Reply to
paul
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12 only indicates the battery was disconnected at one time. When you see that along with lots of other codes then it can indicate a loose or corroded battery terminal. I've yet to see a jeep that didn't throw code 12.

Try this.

Turn the key to on, wait for the fuel pump to stop. Turn the key off, then back on, wait for the fuel pump to stop. Now turn the key off, then start the engine.

If the engine starts right up then you have a leakdown problem in the fuel line. It's either the pressure regulator in the rail or the backflow valve in the pump.

Also, how long has it been since you replace the fuel filter?

Engine RPM of 500-600 is normal. Have you cleaned out the throttle body and idle air passage?

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Reply to
DougW

Tried that, I can hear the fuel pump kicking in - still no success

About 2 years ago for the fuel filter. Did notice a crack in the boot coming off the pressure regulator to the manifold - did a temporary fix with electrical tape. When the engine does start there is a noticable gas smell - would a bad regulator show these symptoms?

Sprayed cleaner in it - would a dissassemble and thorough clean be more appropriate?

THANKS! paul

Reply to
paul

Yes, if the internal diaphragm has broken it could be leaking and that leak will run back into the intake. Easy enough to tell by simply removing the vac line while the engine is running, and checking for gas.

So can leaky O-rings in the fuel rail quick connectors or leaking injectors and their pressure side O-rings. Easiest way to check is to wipe the rail and injectors down, run the engine, then go back with some kleenex and see if you can pick up any fuel. Injectors can leak around the electrical connection. If they are then they have to be replaced. It is not necissary to replace them as a set, you can replace just one.

You wind up with a better job but it's not necessary. Sometimes I take the idle air assembly off and dunk it in a glass of cleaner. Just don't run the motor with the IAC out of its assembly. The little pin will go shooting out and that's it for the stepper motor.

Should pick up a new gasket for the throttle body, since the old one hardly ever seals back properly. That and it's cheap insurance in case you rip the old one taking it out. And don't use a wrench on the bolts, they only go in to 9 ft.lbs. That's easy to overdo with just a screwdriver.

Reply to
DougW

Doug! Replaced the regulator and she fires up instantly - thank you! I think I will still do the throttle body clean to round out the whole ordeal.

thanks aga>> "DougW" wrote

Reply to
paul

Glad to hear it's fixed, and your welcome.

I just finished replacing my fuel filter and the old one definitly had some crud in it. :/ You know it's the filter when you get pinging only at wide open throttle on the highway.

Reply to
DougW

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