110 Steering adjustment. Circa 1990

Yep, there is a locknut on top of the box, there is an amount of adjustment, but not that much....

I would suggest adjusting it with the front wheels off the ground so you can move it from lock to lock checking for overly tight spots after adjustment.

Worth checking all the usual suspects while at it.

Steering column UJ's etc, any stiff points (MOT man would have said I expect) can be a stuck UJ, or as I've had, failed column bottom bearing.

The box as mention'd above, check the workshop manual, a few different types have been used over the years.

Drop arm on the bottom of the box (they can sometimes work loose on the splines on the shaft out the bottom of the box!)

Ball joints, any or all 4 of the sod's, the one on the drop arm is an odd one to say the least, but you can rebuild/adjust it, sometimes...

Also the swivels, and front axle panhard rod bushes and so forth, etc etc. When you start looking, it's often amazing the problems you find lurking!

Lastly wheel bearings. It's also amazing how a slightly slack one of them can make something the size of a 110 feel "odd" on the road...

And not to be left out, have a cursory glance arround the back end too, also the damper rubbers etc. Might not be MOT failures or advisories, but "well used" ones, can gain make things feel "less than good"...

PS: If anyone kows.. Didn't someone come up with a mod a while back, to replace the drop arm ball joint with a conventional sealed type, like the other three?...

Cheers.

DaveB, looking to change insurance co, after a 300% hike in proposed premium, for no events/incidents over 8 years.

Age / Post Code ???

Mines doubled in the last two years

Broker says its because of post code and Crash for cash area

:-(((((((((

On or around Mon, 11 Apr 2011 16:37:48 +0100, DaveB enlightened us thusly:

've always found the big problem with LRs is nothing feels "off" in the handling unless it's more or less literally coming apart. Only symptom on the SIII of a broken front chassis leg was an odd clonk when applying the brakes - the chassis was cracked behind the front spring hanger so that effectively, the front of that spring wasn't attached.

Same with the disco II - failed the taxi test with worn track rod joint, I'd been doing 80-odd on the motorway on the way there and never noticed anything amisss.

You can use the drag link, drop arm and TRE from the later Discovery's that have a standard TRE instead of the 'kit' one, but there is a snag

- you'll need to weld a bracket on for the damper.

Easier, and a lot stronger, is to go for the Britpart heavy-duty track rod kit for the later 300Tdi Discovery's that has 4 x standard TREs, the damper bracket is a clamp which you can position by measuring the bracket on the old drag link before removal.

Interesting info. Except for the **itpart reference. I won't go near them for anything like steering parts, if they can't even make stub axles that you can get a bearing on!

Thanks for the tip re the disco version parts.

DaveB