110CSW clutch problems

How did you check the slave cylinder for leaks? Did you take it out?

The only real way to tell is to remove the cylinder from the bell housing, unless the leak is so back that it is pooring out the wading plug hole.

No, I only looked at the pipework/bleed nipple area.

What's involved in removing it and what spares should I have to hand? (To reduce the time its off the road to as short as possible) Are there items that should be replaced anyway?

I remember reading in a previous thread that getting the operating shaft back in again can be fun! Is that right, or am I confusing this with something else?

Cheers

Peter

It sounds as though you ran out of fluid and have now got air in the system as you have surmised - is the bleed nipple on the top of the slave cyclinder, or the bottom. Some fit it with the nipple at the bottom as "it's easier to bleed" - but it isn't, is practically impossible!

If the clutch works ok, but the bite is near floor as you describe then it most likely that there is still air in there rather than anything having failed - does it "pump up"?

If you are really sure there is no air, then the next likely suspect is that the slave cyclinder seal has failed - but you'd expect the inside of the boot to be "wet".

Richard

On or around 2 Feb 2006 01:05:12 -0800, "puffernutter" enlightened us thusly:

ISTR that they can be a bastard to bleed. pressure bleed works better than gravity or pumping it.

In message , puffernutter writes

All pretty straight forward 2 bolts to remove cylinder. Although it is just above the exhaust pipe on your model which makes it slightly harder.

Re positioning of rod should never be hard even if the clip is broken, some people just make a meal of it.

As others have said, you've lost fluid somewhere and now have air in the system. If you can's see any leaks it's likely the seals in the slave that have leaked. if i recall correctly replacing the clutch slave is easy enough. remove hydrolic line, undo 2 bolts (or was it nuts?) remove old slave, insert new slave with rod going through the hole into the cylinder. fit with bleed nipple uppermost. tighten bolts (nuts?) fit and tighten hydrolic line.

easiest to bleed with a pressure system (if you happen to be in east cornwall youcan borrom mine).

if the exhaust is in the same place as on the 12J do it with the engine cold as your wrists will be meeting the exhaust pipe, not good if it's hot.

-- Mark.

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But do remember to put the new one in with the bleed nipple pointing skywards ;-)

FWIW, every time this happened to me (on 3), the main cylinder failed shortly afterwards, so if I ever have to do it again, I'll just replace both at the same time and save all the faffing around bleeding the bleeding things!

Unless a customer is dead broke I always replace both as a matter of course - there seems to me to be little point in putting a brand new slave cylinder onto a master cylinfer that's full of assorted detritus that's worn off the seals in the now defunct old slave cylinder.

The clutch slave cylinder failed completely on my 110 turbo while I was at work and it was spending the day in the car park. No previous sign of any trouble but while standing it just dumped the fluid into the bell housing. Access is very tight by the exhaust pipe - which did make me wonder if the proximity to all that heat might have had something to do with it.

Nick Webster

I once had one fail similarly without warning, as i approached a roundabout.

i don't think the proximity of the exhaust contributed as i believe it was the first time it had failed on that vehicle (it was 10 years old and as far as i could tell, original).

-- Mark.

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