90's here....

I'll have to have a gander :-)

Andy

As soon as I can get to my PC instead of this bloody laptop (wife's using it) I will scan the diagram and key in my original Handbook and send you a copy.

Sent now, let me know if it's not legible, it looked OK this end.

Might be worth getting an original handbook if they are still available, I remember getting one for my old Series 3. Mind you stuff like oils etc have moved on somewhat since then, but it's a bit more technical than the modern books.

I'll be working on it tomorrow afternoon if you want a nosey :)

Take the camera out to. This thread is worthless without pictures :0)

Lee D

Bang on matey, much appreciated :)

Most likely a faulty hazard switch.

It's odd Mike, the relay sometimes chatters in either indicator or hazard mode.

I think it's had water in the relay looking at the stains :)

Whats the other relay in the fusebox area? A little silver coloured one?

Nige

Had a peep today, have to say it is a bargain. Very solid body and chassis and engine ran well too, just needs a good tidy up.

Will be tempted when it comes up for sale :-)

Andy

If the indicators work fine in normal use then I'd agree with EMB that's it's most likely the hazard switch (YUF101490) causing the problem. The switch itself is simple to check if you've got a multimeter and the wiring diagram.

Colin

Jeezus... Finally!

Welcome to the dark side.

Pics!

I'll take some tomorrow :)

Seconded.

It's a truly horrid design and circuit: the things fail mechanically and then b***er the indicators at the same time. They're so bad it's almost worth carrying a spare.

Look at the escutcheon plate: it *needs* a tiny notch, horizontally, at the centre line of the switch, to let the rocker pivots pass through when you're fitting a new switch. I bought an aftermarket stainless plate, with laser-cut rectangles and no notches. Unknowingly, I then b***ered-up the switch whilst fitting it by shearing off one of the pivots.

Two minutes with a Dremel fixed it, but not until I'd ruined another switch. Incidentally, per usual, proper LR ones are slightly better than Britpart. Be gentle though - there's hardly any lip on the switch, and too big a notch will show.

Despite the nuisance, those stainless plates are fairly good though, as the OEM plastic panel otherwise bows horribly and eventually snaps.

HTH, S.

PS: forgot: if you do get a metal one, dis- the battery before pushing the hazard switch home, as there are a couple of bare contacts on the side that can short as you push it in. IIRC, the circuit is nasty, and one of 'em is normally live. It's OK once the switch is clipped in properly. There's too little clearance even for insulating tape over them! SM.