Advice please

My 1986 90 was a 2.5 petrol origonally. It now has a V8 and a Disco auto gearbox. I think the gearbox I took out was a LT77? Richard

If the vehicle was built in 1987 then I'd be pretty sure it had a LT77. Can't help with the noise but rebuild kits are readily available over here which may help if you're stripping the gearbox and want to be sure of having the parts required onhand.

I think yours should have a 1.4:1 LT230 transfer box as oppposed to 2.5 petrol 110s which had 1.67:1 boxes. Main box should have the same gearing as was used with the 2.5TD so it's not horrendously bad gearing for a diesel as long as it's not a tractor engine going in.

My father had a 2.5 petrol which was very very slow at all stages of it's life. Mind you, that was in a LWB CSW which is a tad heavier. I've never heard of any major problems with the engine (I believe he only had a dizzy cap fail on him) but then I would imagine most 2.5 petrol 110s from the factory are now 200Tdis or something similar. As far as value goes then they have to be some of the cheapest coil sprung

90/110s - nearly as thirsty as a V8 (comparable mileage if you have light foot on a v8) but nowhere near the power.

I'd expect the vehicle in the UK to sell for about 1000UKP - up to

2500UKP if the chassis+body being really really good (assuming plenty tax+test and the gearbox not deafening you).

Regards

William MacLeod

How hard is gearbox overhaul on an LT77 ? Compared to an engine rebuild say ? I'm toying with the idea of doing one, but wiser heads might prevail.

Steve

As a general rule I'd say an engine is easier than a gearbox.

It's an LT77 - 50Axxxxxx

The 2.5 Petrol is a pretty good engine for a 90. Though only slightly "better" on paper that the 2¼ Petrol, the difference when driving is quite an eye opener. I sold one to a customer on the basis that he would be doing a V8/Tdi conversion and he's never bothered.

The gearbox is the same as for the 2.5D (and 2.5TD I think). The transfer box should be a 13D, but may be 20D - both are 1.6:1, the same for all 4-cylinder non-Tdi 90's.

Probably quite silly money - *any* 90 in any condition will sell for a lot more that its "book" value at the moment (particulalrly a Station Wagon or Truck Cab) - 90's a 110 Station Wagons are hard to find at all, even in a rough state. So the value over there is probably not going to bear much relationship the actual UK values.

Richard

As long as you have a splitter/puller it's not too bad. Getting the collar of the mainshaft to release the 5th gear extension case can be fun too. The first one is likely to be a bit of a puzzler. We have a couple of customers who now routinely rebuild boxes (unless completly knackered) rather than but re-con's. The details are in the earlier Range Rover Classic Haynes book - deleted in books for later models. Richard

On or around Sat, 17 Dec 2005 23:08:21 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

The 2.5 petrol is a good engine for a 90. 's a bit underpowered in a 110, but it's more powerful than a 2.5 NAD. Gets a bigger and better carb, compared to the 2.25, which might account for most of the increase in power, at that. ISTR they're supposed to do about 83 BHP.

It'll most likely be a LT77 - in which case, apart from iffy synchros, your main worry will be output shaft/T-box input gear wear, which has been covered at length - the most practical cure is a recon box and a new gear...

I wouldn't assume a tired enigne from the mileage unless you know it from other sources. The 4-cylinder petrol engines, provided they've had some maintenance, last forever, almost.

Not all that much, Petrol's too expensive.

On or around Sat, 17 Dec 2005 23:08:21 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

one additional point: you can with a bit of fiddling fit the electronic distributor from an O series petrol engine...

not sure if this was really worth it - but it stops all that arsing around setting points and so forth :-)

Thanks for the comments. Do you need a specific size, or a range of pullers ?

I haven't seen much in the way of guidance, apart from the official landrover Disco box manual, and that assumes a lot of fore-knowledge.

Steve

The plates on mine something around 8" o/d with the nuts tightned. I only use (have!) the one.

The Haynes one is pretty good - certainly someone with your knowledge shouldn't have too much difficulty - just note what went where!

Richard

Ah yes, learned that one taking the engine to bits, or, more accurately, putting it back together - hence the various extra bolt orders.....

I had a clever indexing system for all the various bags of parts - only I lost the index.

Steve

When you disassemble a gearbox the easiest way to keep everything in order is to thread the components of each shaft (bearings, bushes, thrust, gears, synchros, etc) onto a piece of rod in the order (and orientation) that you removed them. Then so long as the kids or the apprentice don't knock the whole bloody lot off the bench it's not too bad to get back together.

Thanks everyone for your replies. I'm considering my options - as the engine seems a little tired I'll have to factor in repair or replacement as well as a gearbox rebuild (prices thanks to Mr Beamends). Doing all of that will probably stretch my budget a bit far so I'll probably give it a miss (and wife will have kittens if I install another project in the garage before I finish her kitchen).