Another Defender 90 Propshaft Question...Advice sought.

Hi all,

I decided to investigate the knocking and grumbling noise to the rear of my 90 today. As well as getting wet I found that I have a worn rear UJ. This isnt the problem, the seized spline however is.

So my rerar prop is about dead at the moment. The front UJ is fine and there is some play in the rear UJ so i'll replace that. But, can anything be done with the seized spline?

When I say seized I mean it neads a lump hammer with some persuasion to extend the spline and equal amounts of force to push back together.

My first thought was a lack of grease, but about 1/4 trigger later and new grease was pouring from the joint???

Any thoughts please? Are the splines servicable (hopefully) or is it new prop time?

Thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon
Loading thread data ...

For what it will cost i would replace the prop. No point arsing around for hours when a new prop will cure it right away with minimum effort.

I suppose it all depends on your budget & if you're gonna do the job yourself vs. labour times etc.

Nige

--

-- Subaru WRX Range Rover LSE (Bob) FOR SALE!!! Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)

'"I don't remember asking you a goddam thing"

Reply to
Nige

Speedy reply Nige - Thanks.

If a new prop is on the cards then what type? At the moment I'm running stock suspension and 235x85 ATs with no immediate plans to raise it, certainly not beyond 1" - 2". OME springs & dampers going on one day...

Would a cheap one from Paddocks or somewhere be OK or would I be better spending a bit more and getting an OE one? I probably do

15,000 miles a year.

Thanks Jon

hours when a new prop will

vs. labour times etc.

Reply to
Jon

It obviously shouldn't be that tight.

You say that fresh grease comes out of the joint - is this the point where one part slides within the other or at the end of the shaft near the UJ? There is often a plug at the UJ end of the female spline which can blow out under grease pressure. Once this happens no grease reaches the splines themselves.

Check for presence of alignment marks or make your own (assumes that it was correctly aligned at the beginning!). Fully dismantle and clean, check for burrs, twisted splines or a bent shaft. Grease and re-assemble. I'd be surprised if you can't salvage it unless twisted/bent.

Reply to
Dougal

When I use the grease nipple to grease the spline, new grease exits from where the two parts of the spline slide together.

There is often a plug at the UJ end of the female spline which

reaches

If I keep extending the prop along the splines, will I end up with two bits (hence the need for alignment marks)? or will it stop at its maximum travel?

Thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon

There should be a screwed ring on the female part where one part slides within the other. This retains a grease seal (usually felt) and also keeps the two parts together. If the screwed ring is unscrewed you will be able to dismantle the shaft fully - hence the need for alignment aids for re-assembly. A shaft that slides as reluctantly as yours will do the UJs no favours: don't replace them without also getting the shaft to slide.

Reply to
Dougal

Thanks Dougal. Thats tomorrow nights job then!!

Reply to
Jon

The old grease may well have solidified in situ, try heating it and cleaning out the old crud. Grease going off like that is a standard feature of Series

1's, surprising to hear of it in a 90 though. K
Reply to
Karen Gallagher

Prolly best to renew it,I bought one of those propshaft removal sockets takes a couple of minutes with an air ratchet now :)

Reply to
jOn

There are a couple of different rear props, and of course it may well have been replaced with something else already. As someone else has commented, from your description it is a possibility that the wromg grease has been used and has gummed things up - it should be be a Lithium based EP2 high pressure gease.

There is (usually) a ring that can be unscrewed to allow the two halves to be seperated. If you can get them apart you will be able to examine the splines (looking for "steps" on them). If the splines show signs of wear then replacement is the best option in the long run.

The earlier shafts do have a felt "wiper" on the splines under the screw ring, but later ones have a nylon wiper - if yours has this DO NOT heat it - the nylon metls and it may become impossible to sperate the two halves.

I can't speak for others, but our "replacement" prop shafts are all currently GKN - very nice.

I can't tell you which you would need without the last bit if the VIN number and/or the engine/gearbox combination.

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

I dont know about a fekt wiper, but there does appear to be a plastic / nylon sheath around the male part of the shaft, just behind the yoke.

I did manage to unscrew the plastic ring yesterday.

I'll have a closer look tonight in the dry!

I'll drop you a mail with this info.

Reply to
Jon

Look, you need to relook at your approach. If it is dry tonight you need to put on at least a cold wet T shirt then hose the drive down before even considering working on the Landie. For the full effect also hose down the underside then leave the hose on trickle some where that the water is sure to run down your neck as you get under. Further applications of sharp grit any where that looks like a good place to put your hands whist clambering underneath and the obligatory bit of dust in the eye despite protective goggles along with lump of congealed grease down the ear should ensure that your nuts are sufficiently tight enough to mean your ring spanner will fly off the prop bolts hiting you in the teeth and subsequently banging your head (which has been suspended 3 inches from the floor for at least 5 agonising mintues) hits the cold wet floor and renders you semi unconcious. Application of heat promptly followed by accute memory loss leading to grabbing said hot item three seconds later should be concluded with hot grindings down your sock. You should time this process to coincide with a , "Are you going to be much longer? " Request. "Your tea is on the table" or if you are without partner an urgent mobile phone call from your local (Punjabi call centre) double glazing specialist despite the fact you already have double glazing.

I've often seen people working in the dry and I'm sure they aren't getting the full hit.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 11:08:55 -0000, "Lee_D" scribbled the following nonsense:

you owe me a new keyboard!

Reply to
Simon Isaacs

The sad thing is I have experianced all of the above before, perhaps with the exception of the Punjabi call centre!!

Reply to
Jon

Should't the chassis be Waxoyl'd just prior to starting? Oh, and don't forget to leave the tray of oil engine oil out in the rain (ideally just outside the back door), or is that just for pink tarmac drives?

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

In article , jOn writes

Ditto - way cool!

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

What do they look like? I've not seen one here (in Australia), presumably long & thin?

Karen

Reply to
Karen Gallagher

Yes

formatting link
spose a socket and extension could be ground down to work.

Reply to
jOn

"jOn" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net:

The best advice I read on doing this job was to jack up one wheel so you can turn the prop shaft and so easily get at the various nuts and bolts to remove the UJs. (Now, did I get that right?)

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

This is what I do, assisted by a 14mm and 9/16 spanner.

Reply to
Jon

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.