Advice Sought.

Gents'
If I were lucky enough to be able to quit all the bollox that is living in the UK today, and were able to live in a more rural and agricultural
environment abroad where there are no traffic cameras and all that is needed is A-B reliability in a variety of weathers.
What would be my best possible LR take-away from the UK?
Regarding reliability, longevity, simplicity (no dealer networks).
May not be a rhetorical question :-S
I don't think the '99 Rangie is the answer :-)
But I don't know what LR is the best option.
Just "Sick & Tired" of being sick & tired and looking 4 a change. Feeling the call of distant climes and the need to stick 2-fingers up at Gordon Brown.
Dan.
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I'd go for a 200 or 300 Tdi Defender. Pretty easy to work on and no complex electronics to go wrong. If it's a 300 then make sure the cam belt mods have been done.
Will
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If you are going real remote then get a Zeus timing gear conversion.
Lee D
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I've toyed with the idea of getting one of those for mine but don't know anyone with one for first hand experience - they look good, but with the cost to get one I'd want to know that they're worth the £££s and don't cause any other problems.
Will
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Have a search around on the web - they get good and bad reviews, you'd have to read as much as you can and decide. Like polybushes, there doesn't seem to be general agreement either way.
Richard
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Done that :-)
That's why I'd like to get a personal opinion or 2.
Will
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Richard:
Tried the polybushes (OME variant) on the front pan hard rod twice in 1 month after the LR OEM's went bad after 115,000 mi US. No good. I have discovered (nothing new to most) that LR over-built the vehicles and parts. I installed the LR OEM's at a cheaper rate and have been successful ever since. You can have the polybushes, I'll stick to rubber.
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Jack wrote:

Hi Jack, mi US are the same as ours, its gallons US which are 20% smaller. Our gallon of water weighs 10 pounds, yours weighs 8.
Now we are back to a common language, we can continue....
Steve
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steve Taylor wrote:

Not exactly, since the US standard yard is a nadger smaller than the (old) Imperial standard yard. Caused complete havoc during WW2 when spitfire parts from the states didn't fit because of the smaller inch....
Stuart
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Stuart Gray wrote:

Interesting. Have you got a cite for that fact ?
Steve
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said:

Have you ever looked in units.dat, usually found in /usr/share or /usr/share/units
For those not using a UNIX-like O/S, I've put a copy up at http://www.wylie.me.uk/static/units.txt
It contains all sorts of interesting facts, e.g.
# The US Metric Law of 1866 legalized the metric system in the USA and defined # the meter in terms of the British system with the exact 1 meter = 39.37 # inches. On April 5, 1893 Corwin Mendenhall decided, in what has become known # as the "Mendenhall Order" that the meter and kilogram would be the # fundamental standards in the USA. The definition from 1866 was turned around # to give an exact definition of the foot as 1200|3937 meters. This definition # was used until July of 1959 when the definition was changed to bring the US # into agreement with other countries. Since 1959, the foot has been exactly # 0.3048 meters. At the same time it was decided that any data expressed in # feet derived from geodetic surveys within the US would continue to use the # old definition and call the old unit the "survey foot".
This is of course different from the change in the inch in 1959, when it was standardised as 25.4 mm.
http://www.npl.co.uk/length/faqs/general.html
| [In 1959] the American inch changed by 2 millionths of an inch and | the UK inch by 1.7 millionths of an inch. The international inch | falls mid way between the old UK and US inch.
BTW units is a most useful program e.g.
$ units 2439 units, 71 prefixes, 33 nonlinear units
You have: 30 miles/brgallon You want: furlongs/firkin * 1798.5762 / 0.00055599534
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On or around Thu, 15 Feb 2007 01:36:15 -0000, "Lee_D"
depends on where. if you're going *really* remote, you need to know what fuel is available...
For sheer basic simplicity and running-forever I'd go with building a "new" series III petrol - runs forever, runs on anything even remotely like petrol - I've known one being run on TVO which is the next-best thing to paraffin, although it's more difficult to start.
spec:
new galv chassis, known-good rebuilt engine, transmission, and axles, probably new galv bulkhead. Parabolic springs suitable to the anticipated load and make sure the engine has a starting handle dog and you have a starting handle.
But the OP may not be going quite that remote :-)
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writes

Will:
If electronics are the issue then go with a Series variant with a diesel. No electronics there and pretty basic. No land speed records to contend with, so the cameras shall not be an issue. "Faster than molasses, no match for ketchup" I recall reading.
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enlightened us thusly:

series petrols are easier to keep running, mind, and the engines are I think more tolerant of minimal servicing. of course, a diesel is better in water...
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