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Brake issue

Hi,

My brake pedal has started to travell further than it should - Over a period of a few weeks, the pedal is getting closer and closer to the floor if I apply the brakes hard (IE pushing harder than I would even when emergency braking). The brakes still work fine, with no pull etc..

The pedal doesn't creep, it just goes further than it should!

The master cylinder is full and the level has not needed topping up since replacing a wheel cylinder about a year ago.

Is it likely to be the adjusters on the rear drums not working or something else? What other checks can I do? And is it safe to drive?

The vehicle is a C reg 90, front disks rear drums. All pads and shoes were replaced less than a year ago along with the front disks.

Cheers, Paul

Reply to
Paul Coleman
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Trapped air bubble?

How often have you checked the fluid level since the problem started?

Any sign of weeping fluid on joints or lines?

Have you 'over used' the brakes and boiled the fluid? e.g. stressed downhill descents with plenty of middle pedal. I have only just bought a series 2a a month ago and am no expert, but extensive experience with 'real' Minis taught me that under stress and not even serious competitive driving, the fluid could boil and cause bubbles. We used to use some horribly expensive stuff from Girling when rallying and that wouldn't boil even when the front discs glowed cherry red.

Hope you get some better and more experienced users in on this.

Eddy Bayton

Reply to
eddy bayton

On or around 3 Oct 2003 07:06:59 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@legend.co.uk (Paul Coleman) enlightened us thusly:

rear drum adjustment is a likely bet.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around 3 Oct 2003 07:06:59 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@legend.co.uk (Paul Coleman) enlightened us thusly:

FWIW, on the 110 with similar brakes, I adjust the rear ones by applying the brakes, wedging the pedal down with something, then turning the adjusters til they touch and backing off one "notch". Ideally, you then want to jack the rear end and see that the wheels spin freely.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Pardon my asking, but why are you applying the brakes before setting the adjusters? I ask as this in not the usual procedure.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

The rear drums are not self adjusting, as you possibly think, and the symptoms are consistent with the rear drums simply needing adjustment. If you have adjusted them, and the problem still exists, I would suspect the master cylinder. To adjust rear drums: Chock front wheels, jack up back (can do it one side at a time). Release handbrake, out of gear. Tighten adjuster on the backing plate until it is tight, back off one notch, apply brakes hard, check wheel is free to spin, repeat with the other adjuster. Repeat for other wheel. JD

Reply to
JD

If your rear brakes are OK. Does the 90 have dual braking system and are both circuits working? Regards

Reply to
Rudolph Hucker

On or around Fri, 03 Oct 2003 22:28:53 +0100, richard.watson enlightened us thusly:

'cos it makes it easier to turn the adjusters, IME. You do need to make sure you've not overdone it, by seeing that it rolls freely afterwards. The snail-type adjusters can be less easy to operate than the old fashioned "screw-in cone" type ones that used to be on some of the lockheed/girling brakes. Especially if the snails still have a good set of teeth on 'em. They also tend to push the shoes off-centre, resulting in them touching at one end, and then when you apply the brakes the shoes re-centre, and are slacker than they need be.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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