defender rear crossmember.

anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember on a 98

110 defender.
Reply to
DAVID JOHNSTON
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anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember on a 98

110 defender.

Blimey that's short lived. Has it rusted badly or been damaged? Main agents about £500, yourself about £100 for the member and a lot more for the blood, sweat and tears. Do the out riggers need doing as well? Hardest part is lifting the body to access for welding, which incidentally cannot be done as efficiently as at manufacture. After you replace them, apply as much waxoil as you can in every orifice, and apply with several coats

Reply to
Dave Piggin

In message , DAVID JOHNSTON writes

A small local garage charged me approx £220 to supply and replace the rear crossmember of my 1985 110 about 2 years ago. As I waited while he finished the job, he said never again at that price!

All I had to do was fit the 2 handles, upgrade the bent bit of tin he fitted the towing electrics on, and give it a coat of paint.

Reply to
Bill

I paid a welder =A3140 cash to do mine, I supplied the crossmember. All in at an independant LR place I reckon it would be about =A3500. The fuel tank needs to be removed and wiring loom shifted but welding the new one on is easier on a 110 as the chassis rail drops clear of the body so there is plenty of room to weld accross the top. I buying the xmember yourself, make sure it has chassis extensions.

Sean

73FL74 101GS 1984 1102.5NA Medway Military Vehicle Group
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Reply to
sean101ryan

Just had mine done on an '86 110. New crossmember with extensions, two patches either side of rear chassis rail, new rear outrigger farbricated and fitted and hole in nearside front outrigger patched, all waxoyled and painted, tow bar and electrics refitted - all for =A3400 + VAT. Chuffed to bits with the work, while he was there he even refitted my mudflaps which had broken away from the body. Took over a week though, guy said that every bolt he tried to remove sheared off, so he had to replace all them as well! If any one needs a good welder in the Stroud/Gloucestershire area, he's the man...

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Smudge

During stardate Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:56:43 +0100, Dave Piggin uttered the imortal words:

Is this feasible on a 90 or 110?

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Should save alot of work.

Lee D

-- "I'm all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of fools. Let's start with typewriters."

- Frank Lloyd Wright (1868-1959)

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'76 101 Camper '64 88" IIa V8 Auto '97 Disco ES Auto LPG'd '01 Laguna

Reply to
Lee_D

That's step one.......... The problem with fitting a crossmember without extensions to a 90/110 is access to ends of the chassis rails and top of the member for welding. The joint between the chassis rail and crossmember on a Defender is quite deeply recessed and access is pretty restricted. Doing a 90 with extensions is dead easy, as the joint for the extensions is at the bottom of the curve between the axle and rear, so though access to the top of the rail is a bit restricted there is nothing much in the way. On 110's it goes right up to the first crossmember (about

2tf 6in, perhaps a bit more), but you have to remove the tank, rollbar (if fitted) and tow hitch (if fitted). If its a Station Wagon the rear seats need to be folded up out of the way too. And then you have to make sure the tank and roll bar all line up before welding up. Its a lot of work, around a full day for someone who has done it before, probably one and a half to two days for the first attempt.

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

Lee_D wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I had to replace the rear tub anyway when I replaced the rear cross member on my D90 which made it a lot easier.

To start, I made up a rough box section steel template and spot welded that in place to make sure I got all the holes to line up correctly. That seemed to help.

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

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