Difference between a 4 cylinder and a V8 chassis on a 110?

Hi Andy,

I don't know the differences etc, but I have a 1986 3.5 V8 110 CSW so I can take measurements etc if you want. Mine has the LT85 gearbox which might have different mountings from the LT77.

Regards,

Andrew

Nor do I but does your civvy one have the cylindrical bolted cross member under the gearbox like my ex mod one? I ask because (some?) MOD series landrovers had a removable cross member but civilian ones did not.

AJH

Thanks both for the replies.

My 4 cylinder one has a removable cross-member and an LT77. That was one of my concerns is that the LT85 might have different mounting points which would cause a problem with the LT77.

To add to the questions, I also wonder about swapping the LT77 for a ZF autobox - I wonder if it has the same mounting positions as either an LT77 or an LT85 (or both if they're the same..)

I can try to take some measurements tonight - depends if it's raining or not! ;-)

Cheers,

AndyC.

On or around Thu, 07 Aug 2008 11:33:08 +0100, Andrew Cleland enlightened us thusly:

When I put the V8 plus auto in the originally-4-cyl diesel chassis, I ended up moving the engine mounts forward about 4". However, that was using a RR box/bellhousing combo. Using the original gearbox mounts the front prop fitted fine and the rear prop needed lengthening, but that's 'cos the BW transfer box is shorter, if it had an LT230 on the auto box it'd work with standard propshafts.

It's not that hard to move the engine mounts on the chassis, provided you have the gear to cut them off and weld thenm back.

Thanks Austin,

How is yours for exhaust clearance? I've got gobs of space on the driver's side, but my shiny SS tubular manifold (for a 110 V8) won't clear the chassis rail on the passenger side, and I think is also going to foul the gearbox cross-member reinforcing plate where it (the x-member) abuts the chassis rail.

The thing with the engine mounts is that they are in the correct place for the engine to fit onto the LT77's bell-housing, so if I moved the engine it would no longer align with the gearbox. I wonder if the LT85 (I don't think the LT77 ever officially came on a V8) is a different shape or the gearbox mountings different?

Cheers,

AndyC.

On or around Thu, 07 Aug 2008 15:21:29 +0100, Andrew Cleland enlightened us thusly:

Ah, well, mine has the standard 2-pipe (not efi) downpipes and standard Y piece. All fitted together fine - it's tight, on the LH side, but it worked. Dunno if a 4-branch or a 4-downpipe EFI one would fit. I'd expect a 4-branch *designed* for a 110 V* to fit though.

The thing that normally seems to vary is bellhousing length. My approach was to get the engine and box into place, bolt up the box mounts enough to hold 'em still and then see where the engine mounts needed to be, then lift it out again, move the engine mounts...

If you're lucky, it'll all just fit together. You might have to source early RR manifolds and use the RR downpipes and Y pipe. I think that's what I did, and that alllined up nicely with the 110 main silencer.

Mine has the square (well rectangular) section removable cross member.

Andrew

Mine was a 2.5 petrol and I changed it to a V8 with a ZF autobox. The front engine mounts had to be moved forward about 2 1/2 inches and the left hand gearbox mount had to be altered. By keeping the right hand gearbox mount in the same place meant I could keep the same propshafts.

Richard

Blimey, came across this thread after a lot of water under the bridge.

I have a 110 V8 hard-top from 1988. Santana box. It has a removable rectangular cross-section (don't they all), but have never had to remove it as took the box out from the top. If you remove the engine first then you can take off the bell housing and then the whole gearbox and transfer box will come out of the passenger door - did it on my own, but a spare set of hands always helps.

I fitted a tubular manifold from Rimmer when I put it all back together, and it was tight on the driver-side. Needed a bit of tweaking, though I later did some tuning on the manifold face and a few thou there makes for a few tenths as it passes the chassis.

One difference between the V8 and the four pot is the swivel hubs have negative camber. I had a 110 TD and the 110 V8 for a couple of years (both the same age) and kept wondering why the V8 looked bandy. It turns out there is no camber on the normal 110, but one and half degrees on the V8. It is an easy way to spot a genuine V8.

The Santana box is strong, but a bit of a truck box (slow changes). The LT77 only came good later on (D suffix onwards when the beefed up the bearings). I have had two of the earlier ones die on me (one in a TD110, the other in a P6 Rover) and am not very impressed (but I have a G suffix box in a 4.5 litre Marcos and its still there after 60k miles, so the very late ones are pretty good - but rare). Rpi reckon the R380 box is the way to go, and if it has an LT77 sweetness to the change and Santana box strength then that would be the right choice IMHO. Rpi say it is a straight swap, so mounting should be the same. Main difference is that reverse moves opposite 5th (but you won't get it in reverse if looking for a 6th gear at speed!)

Phone 'em up and ask..

Steve