Electronic Igntion for Series IIA

Well worth it. Stops it eating points and plugs. My ignition problems became a thing of the past. Totally reliable.

I have no recent buying experience.

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Alex at snipped-for-privacy@cbmsys.co.uk wrote on 4/2/05 2:36 pm:

No , but I had a Luminition set fitted to my Srs 1 , works very well evern though it has had to be rewired ( under manufacturers instructions) for a posative earth vehicle.

I got it from one of the local 4x4 shops in Yeovil but I suspect it is a common enough system to find.

Rory Manton

It's Not Pink. It's Telemagenta

Reading this months LRO mag it reckons a MG Maestro dizzy & amp module will fit right in & wont cost a great deal!!

Nige

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"

fit right in & wont cost a

Absolutely. Works well - I've done a couple.

See, I'm learning!

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"

On or around Fri, 4 Feb 2005 19:25:35 -0000, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

right in & wont cost a

bah. BTDT several years ago. Sherpa 2-litre O series dizzy in my case. very similar (though only 4 cylinder) to the electronic V8 ones.

fit right in & wont cost a

Can you give me any hints and tips. Do you change the complete dizzy, or get bits out of it. If it's a str8 swap, how do you know the mechanical/vacuum advance settings are correct for a 2.25?

Alex

The above gives a fair rundown on using the Lucas electronic bits. Vacuum advance is not overly critical, using the springs & bob weights from a LR dissy should put you close for the mechanical.

The above both show a conversion using a Hitachi distributor - independantly of these sites I have been using these as a conversion for Ferguson tractors for about 10 years, and have done one on a Landrover and a couple of Minis. Again they work well, but I've checked and set up advance curves on a test bench (not for the tractors, they just run as they are).

On or around Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:14:23 GMT, Alex enlightened us thusly:

fit right in & wont cost a

Below are details for a 2.5l LR petrol

Complete thing. The dizzy on the O series engine (the one that sits half-way along the engine) is, IIRC, a Lucas 45D4. It has an electronic amp attached to the side like the 35DLM8 V8 one. The only thing I needed to do to it was to remove the drive dog from the LR one, remove the drive gear form the sherpa/maestro one (same engine, also found in early rover 820s before they were 16V and in morris itals I believe). The pins are different sizes (on the one I had, anyway) - the 45D4 has a small roll-pin. What I did was to drill the LR drive dog at 90° to the original hole to suit the smaller pin. If you turn the distributor slowly by hand, you can feel the point at which the reluctor passes the trigger as a slight resistance (it doesn't touch, but there's a magnetic effect), this lets you mark a position for a firing point roughly. Of course, before you pulled the original off the lr You set it to firing point on no.1, didn't you... Anyway, that point you just marked on the dizzy... you line up the replacement dizzy shaft with the slot in the bottom of the hole, then rotate the body of the dizzy so the rotor points to a segment in the cap. Fit it, that point is your #1 plug lead. fit the plug leads in the appropriate order, then fire 'er up (which will happen if you got it right) and time dynamically with a strobe.

Personally, I left the advance mechanisms alone, seemed to work OK and fired more readily from cold.