FS: 1989 110, Unique paint, Leeds area

Oct 01, 2004 1 Replies
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Time to part with my beloved 110



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Very good condition. Needs to sell quickly as my insurance only lasts for 2 more weeks.


On or around 1 Oct 2004 12:29:21 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@ntlworld.com (HobGobSnakyWaky) enlightened us thusly:

coo, shiny.

you do realise you can fit seat belts in the back, I suppose?

lap belts are easy, 3-point would be a bit more tricky but could be done.

Disclaimer: The following is what I've done on my vehicles. If you do this to your vehicles and something goes wrong, don't come complaining to me. In other words, you do this at your own risk. If you're not happy with doing this kind of work, get a suitably-qualified person to do it for you.

Floor mountings (or under wheelbox) for lap belts as follows...

for each mounting, you need:

7/16" UNF full nut - this is the standard seat belt mounting thread in UK. 7/16" UNF bolt of suitable length, if this is not with the belt - if you liberate belts from the back seat of scrap cars, you can get the bolts. 4" square (or thereabouts) x 3mm thick minimum steel plate welder or someone to do it for you. 4 pop rivets, 4.8mm, riveter. You can instead use say 4x6mm bolts.

Drill 12mm in the centre of the plate. Drill 4x5mm near the corners of the plate Line up the nut with hole in the plate (easiest way is to put the bolt through it) Weld the nut to the plate. Decide where the mounting is to be. It should be alongside the seat and behind the back of the seat. Place the plate on the floor/wheebox and mark the hole positions, then drill holes in the floor the same as the ones in the plate. Get a handy assistant to crawl under the vehicle and hold the plate under the floor, with the nut on the underneath side. Rivet the plate in place with the 4 rivets. Bolt seatbelt in place and tighten securely.

note that the welding between the nut and the plate and the rivets are only there to stop the nut from turning when you try to put the belt in. They don't in any way affect the strength of the finished job.

The strength of the mounting is related to the area of the plate. in fact, I guess strictly it's related to the length of the perimeter of the plate. For the mounting to fail, you'd have to pull that plate through the floor, which would take some serious amount of force.

note too, the regulations for retrofitting belts to minibuses and coaches (unless they've changed 'em, I think my copy is about 1996) don't specify dimensions for the reinforcing plate. If you don;t think it sounds strong enough, you might like to consider that the bottom front seat mount on the

110 outer side is attached to the body by 4x6mm bolts.

As to 3-pointer top mountings, you have a choice: either make a very strong seat frame, and attach the belt to the frame - in which case, the seat frame REAR mounts to the floor must be of seat-belt standard. In some ways this is a good choice, as you can then have a middle mount as well. If you don;t fancy that, there's nothing in principle stopping you having an upper mounting done like the floor ones described above, through the side of the vehicle, however, most people would consider it unsightly... internal mountings are possible however, I've not actually ever done one, so I'd suggest looking at how they're done by landrover on a recent 110 CSW for ideas.

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