Kickdown cable replacement

On or around Sat, 08 Mar 2008 00:19:08 +0000, Pete M enlightened us thusly:

Bloody breakers always do that (most of 'em, anyway) - if they can't dismantle it with a gas axe, they don't bother. Annoying, indeed. It never seems to occur to them that people might want trivia like cables or hoses.

I don't think it's quite as bad as it sounds... but no, never done one.

Badger is the man to ask, he knows quite a bit about 'em.

Clean all around sump pan gasket, then clean it again. Serious issue, any dirt enters the 'box, it'll be FUBAR'd in short-time. Drain oil, remove sump pan (either 10mm hex bolts or T27 Torx, both were used) Undo 3 bolts securing filter and throw filter in skip! Remove remaining T27 bolts holding valve body to gearbox and carefully place to one side after unhooking from selector input (easier to look at and simpler than I can explain it!) and place on clean newspaper. Don't worry, notthing's going to fly apart!! Unhook kickdown cable and use 2 flat screwdrivers to press the plastic tangs of the cable end fitting inwards to unclip the cable. (Tool 112 is the one referred to but screwdrivers will do!) Press new kickdown cable into box until it clicks in, and reconnect cable after winding the pulley the correct number of turns as per book. Refit valve block ensuring selector engages in operating end of valve (pretty obvious). Fit all T27 bolts loosely, wiggle the valve block about and find roughly the "central" position and tighten the bolts, no need for setting tool 109! Fit new pickup filter and refit sump, replace sump gasket if not ok. (Rubber seal, only needs replacing if torn or if its gone hard or if it was previously leaking!)

Don't try and get away with a T25 torx bit, get the correct T27 or you'll knacker the internal bolts. There are 2 part numbers for kickdown cables, one is longer, so check which one you need. For parts, avoid the likes of rpi like the plague, unless you like getting ripped off. Go to a company called JPAT

they'll sell you everything you need at fair prices. For example, a kickdown cable from them is under half the cost from rpi !!

Easy job, don't be put off mate. Badger.

Fabulous. Thanks Badger.

I'll probably take the cable off the dead box to give me a bit of practice. Bought a new gasket and filter today as I'm going to swap the sump from the dead box to the replacement as the sump on the dead box is in perfect condition (I'm the only person who's ever off roaded it).

Is it ok to do all this with the gearbox upside down on the bench, or is that a bad idea?

Perfectly ok, makes it easier. Badger.

And don't forget to get a new 'O' ring for the pickup pipe, it doesn't come with the filter, bloody tight arses.

Martin

Tell ya summat, I'll never remove the auto box complete with the transfer box again.... that is one heavy transmission. Especially when I was working in a pit, without a gearbox stand / pit jack / engine hoist.

Even the torque converter is bloody heavy, do Land Rover make their transmissions from plutonium or something?

On or around Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:23:06 +0000, Pete M enlightened us thusly:

The TC has quite a lot of oil in it. But it's still heavy without.

I suppose one of us could have told you, I've been there etc. :-)

Martin

You *did* tell me, but the chap who was helping me - and who owns the workshop I did it in - had a serious allergy to removing the transfer box. He is a Mitsubishi / Ford / Subaru / Mazda / VW mastertech and it turns out that removing the transfer box on most Mitsubishi 4x4s is an absolute nightmare. He is, however, a bloody good mechanic and the type of chap who's likely to know an easy way of doing most things. In this case he was severely wrong. We split the boxes to put the new one in.

It's all in now, all I have to do is put the oils in the boxes tomorrow and then, hopefully, it'll be back on the road.

Need to adjust the transmission selector cable, which shouldn't take long.

On or around Thu, 13 Mar 2008 01:04:36 +0000, Pete M enlightened us thusly:

I've changed the one in the 110 before now from inside, lifting the 2 parts out by hand. Although I admit the box itself is a bit heavy. T-box isn't too bad. And I did lift the box out without the TC, since the box had failed the TC had to come off to be flushed out as it had contaminated oil in it; and the S/H box I had to put in had no TC of its own. Not sure what moron removed it and left the TC with the engine.