New Land Rover

well done!

first thing I always do with a new one is change all the fluids, everything. though I'm not sure about the swivels and one-shot, if it has some in then great, I suppose you can tell by opening the drain plug, if you get wet it's ep 90, if it's thicker like runny grease then it's one-shot then put the drain plug back in sharpish.

Difflock.com do some interesting synthetic (I think) gear oils longer life/quieter running etc, not tried any myself.

Oil treatments, some people swear by them, some people swear about them. but most people agree that you should use something high quality (SPI etc) and the correct viscosity as in the manual I use millers oils myself for engines.

Fuel treatment, a good dose of injector cleaner annualy is a good idea in my opinion.

oil, fuel and air filters too.

Also change the cam belt if you can't be sure when that was done and the aux belts too if they look at all worn (might as well eh).

check the levels of the battery. tyre pressures, bulbs (I always fit osram silver star headlamp bulbs).

I'd fill-up with diesel and a heavy heavy dose of injector cleaner and take it for a good hard drive.]

As for chassis treatment, you could go for waxoyl but I'd have it done by someone who knows their stuff, my new disco (10 year old ish) will likely be going to see

for their waxoyl treatment (it's a pain in the arse job and I'd rather pay my money and have a pro do it properly).

Get yourself a Haynes Manual and if you can find one a LR owners workshop manual, they'll tell you all you need to know, most notably how much of what kind of fluids go where and when. (amazon/ebay). There may be some info for you on one of my websites

spare wheel carriers: a review of 6 in LRO magazine rated the Mantec 2-SA50/A (£214.67) and the Scorpion Racing RWCHL (£205.62) as the best of the bunch (the latter also has bits for mounting a hi-lift jack). I've never tried nor used either myself.

Regards. Mark.

Check if it needs a Cam belt modification to prevent early failure of the belt; personally I'd change the belt as a matter of course anyway ~ £ 200 indipendant if you don't do it yourself. All round pads check, fluids change as a matter of course ( axles, diff, gearbox etc. ? not sure of this for yours depends on use and abuse before ). Use best spec fluids, make sure you get correct tyre pressure for oddball size tyres.

Millers oils and diesel additive.

I think I'm doing ok with this bit, the cam belt is being changed before I take it and I insisted all the fluids were changed before I collect and it's given a full major service. I get a 6 month "warrenty" as well, but its one of them out sourced jobs that covers everything but "that bit sir..."

Whats the best tyre pressure for motorway driving in them? I've got a little 4x4 kit car think and its a bit bouncy with the recommended tyre pressures so I up them a bit for "high speed" driving

I'll put some diesel additive in it on Friday I think when I put a full tank of fuel in it... Gulp... any idea how much that might cost at 86p a litre?

One thought. Did they never fix the cam belt problem on the later TDi, similar to the introduction of the transfer gear oiling type device (precise huh...) Or am I being optimisitic

On or around 27 Apr 2005 09:20:56 -0700, "Dave" enlightened us thusly:

I hope you didn't pay more for it? Waste of money, them things - I was daft enough to buy one on a car once; extra 150 quid on the price and when you read the small print, there are that many get-outs that I doubt it's actually possible to claim anything from it.

I used to run about 32-34 all round in the 110, but that had bog fat tyres (31x10.5R15). With normal tyres, I expect something a few pounds higher if anything. Don't be fooled by the manual saying 28 in the front ones - IME, with 110 and disco (the latter both diesel and petrol) is that the only advantage in this is a marginally softer ride - the tyres wear unevenly and it creates more drag, though.

recently-replaced front tyres on my disco had been run at 36, and wore just about as evenly as any I've seen on an LR vehicle.

On or around 27 Apr 2005 09:26:32 -0700, "Dave" enlightened us thusly:

It's rumoured that the later ones are better. The various mods got incorporated in the build of the engine, I think.

what year was yours again?

86? It's 96 in some parts of Norfolk! Costs me about 50 squids for the average fill up but I don't run to completely empty. BTW don't forget to grease yer nipples occasionally. ( On the propshafts that is) TonyB

35-40 in my 110 with 750r16's on

Regards. Mark.

On or around Wed, 27 Apr 2005 19:22:09 +0000 (UTC), "TonyB" enlightened us thusly:

tank holds something close to 90 litres...

about 92 here.

I'm coming up your way camping this weekend.

I'll fill up before I come!!