non starter v8

Hi, I have just replaced the starter motor on my V8 trialer. No the engine will only fire when the starter button is depressed the ignition lights come on with the swich as usual but as soon as you let go of the starter button the engine cuts out.

Any ideas anyone?

Regards Jim

Reply to
Jim
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First of all... switch on the ignition and check you have 12 + going to the coil.

Sounds like a Ballast resistor type problem. Are you sure you haven't left a wire off the starter? The ballast resistor has a feed from the starter soleniod which should only provide 12+ on cranking for those which have ballast resistor type coils fitted... then the voltage drops once the starter is no longer cranking. In your case sounds like the only power going to the starter is when cranking.. Whilst checking the coil for + voltage also check the connections are snug.

Lee D

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Reply to
Lee_D

I'm only getting 12+ at the coil when the starter button is pressed. on the back of the solenoid I have the main 12v feed from the battery, then on spade conectors theres 2 wires. i assume these are from the starter button?

Reply to
Jim

Sounds aboout right, I think one will go to the button to provide 12+ for the solinoid to do it's stuff.

The other is most likely to go to the coil for your pure 12+ which bypasses the balast resistor.

So you need to find out now whats happend to the feed from the balast resistor to the coil +

To check this theory you can run it for a short while by having a wire from the battery 12+ to the + on the coil. Now when you start it should carry on running...until you can disconnect your new wire.. so make it so it's easy to snatch off or put a switch in line.

I had an '83 Rangie which had an intermittent bad connection on the coil which cause the symptoms your now suffering.

HTH

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

I had exactly the same problem on my 101!.

As Lee says - a 12V feed straight to the coil will get you started, and is a good temporary measure (3 weeks so far!), but it doesnt do the coil much good to run it on 12V all the time.

Reply to
Tom Woods

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Tom Woods blithered:

I suspect the ballast resistor itself has failed or the feed to its hot end, both these are often integral with the solenoid so not easy to investigate/diagnose. OTTOMH measure resistance between the 2 low current leads you have access to, unfortunately this will also read the solenoid coil resistance, so you won't see an open circuit resistor!

Reply to
GbH

In news:KgGrc.36$0t6.16@newsfe4-win, GbH blithered:

Bolix, who's a plonker? course it won't show solenoid resistance that is to chassis!

Reply to
GbH

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this problem. I managed to blow the fuse to the fuel pump while messing about with the ignition switch and decided to 'wiggle' the rest of the fuses as they looked dirty and cured the problem!! Looks like i'll be buying a new fuse block and putting inside a waterproof box this time.

Many thanks for your help

Reply to
Jim

Pumping and blowing while turning on his LR, Jim wiggled it, just a little bit with...

Tupperware do a nice line in cheap waterproof boxes - siliconed gland into side of box. Cost - pennies. Efficacy - 100% Multi-use - very - keeps your sandwiches fresh too....

Reply to
weallhatebillgates

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