Unfortunately ABS is MOT-able or at least the warning light is it must illuminate then extinguish at the correct time so no taking the bulb out I have tested most 4x4's on a single axle brake tester the only problem I have encountered is with Freelanders if you check for imbalance on the front so both rollers are turning it locks the viscous coupling and climbs out of the rollers
Andy
But it works. When it is in the 'on' position the headlamps will emit infra-red light.
What brake fluid costs, and how much the vehicle needs, it can be worthwhile doing a near-total change. It does gradually 'age'. This can be a tedious job, and sometimes needs a non-obvious procedure, but is worthwhile if you're changing pads or doing other work.
And mine is a 97 300 Tdi (so somewehere between 7 and 8 years old seems to be right for dripping)
The rear diff seems to be seeping, too. I'm not sure where - it looks like it's coming from around what looks like sealing compound holding the two halves of the diff together. It's nothing major ....... it cleaned up nicely with a bit of kitchen roll!
Judith
Really good mechanics (as opposed to uniformed fitters) are very difficult to find. And when you do find one, there's always some git with a purple 101 who's got him booked until 2007.
:-)
On or around Fri, 13 Aug 2004 07:16:17 +0100, "Andy.Smalley" enlightened us thusly:
all mine have been too. I dunno if the viscous coupling in the middle of the RR with the BW transfer box would lock. But in general, the only 4x4 you have a problem with is one with an LSD.
having said that, the 4x4 ford has been tested on a 2-axle rig and that has a viscous centre diff, too.
On or around Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:06:16 +0100, Judith enlightened us thusly:
Use 'em. the more you use 'em, the cleaner they get.
having said that...
check the disc thickness. they should be something around 13mm, if they're less than about 11mm you may as well replace them anyway, as they're not expensive from Paddock et al.
same applies if the discs are very pitted. surface red rust on an otherwise-smooth disc happens within days if the vehicle is standing and is of no consequence and will disappear after a journey of 20 miles or so, provided you use the brakes.
If the pads are noticeably worn (less than about 3-4mm left) then change them at the same time.
On or around Fri, 13 Aug 2004 01:53:25 +0100, "Larry" enlightened us thusly:
most discos don't have ABS either... but the 4-pot caliper discs on the front of the disco/RR/110 are seriously good stoppers.
True, but the whole system does 'go off' with age. Mine got to the point where they would hardly lock the front wheels in the dry.
New fluid, hoses and better pads made a world of difference. I'd strongly recommend new fluid and hoses to anyone with a vague pedal - they don't have to be like that.
Judith vaguely muttered something like ...
Yeah .. I dunno why, but we used to think ours was a '97, maybe the P plate .. ;) Actually, just looked through documents and I've just found out why .. It was first actually registered on 2/8/96 on the V5, but the first keeper and only other owner, first acquired it on 7/3/97 .. so it sat on the dealer forecourt for a few months before 'living' ... Which we know it did as first owner said it came to him with only 6 miles on the clock ... ;)
Everywhere's nice and dry on mine.
We got it last September with 55k on the clock, it's now got 72k on and had absolutely no problems that weren't self-inflicted .. Like the 31" tyres scuffing and bending the rear wheel arch, and me tearing off the rear bumper end caps etc when off-roading. Nothing that can't be fixed with just baling wire, gaffer tape and a hammer .. so just like my old S3 then .. ;)
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