RR Split Radiator again

Hi all,

1988 RR Efi with an RPi 4.6 v8 fitted (approximately 42,000 miles on the new engine).

I had a reconditioned rad fitted 15 months ago, it leaked immediately at one of the tank seams and was replaced by the rad company with no hassle.

13 months later this rad started leaking in the same place, the top seam on both ends of the rad (12 months warranty etc...:-(....

So my mechanic chum sent it off to a radiator guy he uses who builds custom rads for race/drag cars, this chap is very good apparently, said He would strip it down, re core it, pressure test and paint it for about the same price as a recon is going to cost me. It made sense so I went ahead.

Rad came back, was fitted, it leaked in the same place on one side of the rad within 48hrs. Radiator guy was contacted, said it shouldn't be leaking and took it back straight away, re soldered it, pressure tested it again (my mechanic chum watched him do it).

Rad refitted again, leaked within a week from the seam at the top on the other side......

It's looking like I've got engine trouble, the rad guy, understandably, doesn't want to fix it again. I've got no gripe with the rad guy or my mechanic, I just want to get to the bottom of whatever is causing this, it's been suggested there could be head gasket problems. (which I'd be a bit annoyed with after only 42K miles).

Should I be looking for anything specific? Does the radiator problem point to a known engine problem or could I genuinely have duff pattern tanks on the rad?

The car runs fine, there doesn't appear to be excess pressure in the top hose from the block to the rad at idle. I lose a reasonable amount of water overnight whilst the car is parked....there's usually a small puddle under the car in the morning (this could be happening when I park up at night as the pressure drops).

Is it worth chucking the rad away completely and getting another one or at this point should I be getting the engine thoroughly tested?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Alan Mudd

Reply to
Alan Mudd
Loading thread data ...

Should have mentioned in the original post....

The expansion tank cap has been replaced and the overflow tube is free and clear.

Reply to
Alan Mudd

Remove heads, throw head bolts in bin, fit new composite gaskets with ARP head stud kit. Problem solved, permanently. Seen head gasket trouble on many a 4.6, at lower miles than yours Muddy. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

The engine was built using the stud kit and composite gasket, this wasn't an off the shelf job, it was built up for me.

That's why I'm a bit surprised that it's gone this soon, should I be concerned, or just renew it all and chalk it up to bad luck?

Reply to
Alan Mudd

Check block deck for squareness, 2 - 3 thou limit. Examine edges of liners very carefully for creep (shows as a "crack" between top edge of liner and alloy of block) especially around no's 1,2,7,+8 near the waterways. Also check the heads themselves for any warping, any more than 3 thou, skim true. Check torque on nuts after a couple of hundred miles post rebuild. I also tend to use a very thin smear of Hylomar SQ32, L or M, direct on the alloy around the waterways on both block and heads when assembling. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.