Ping transmission dudes...

Did a day's off-roading in the Disco (300Tdi with EDC, ZF auto) on Saturday and got the front end submerged in wet mud several times. On the way back to the campsite it started to play up. Medium to full throttle, no problem. Idling or over-run, no problem. But on a smidgin of throttle (going through villages etc) the revs were dying back to zero and then coming back intermittently, and the "check engine" light was flashing at the same time. Back at the site, I found nothing wrong/missing/loose under the bonnet, but the transmission oil cooler was clogged with mud throughout its length. I tried to clear it out with a hose, but not very successfully. Next day, towing a caravan, it did about 5 hilly miles and then as we were climbing a long hill it started making horrendous squeaking noises (as if from a stone caught between brake disc and mudshield) and the transmission overheat light came on. When we stopped, there was a very hot smell coming from underneath. Transmission oil level was OK (bearing in mind that the rig was hot and it should be measured cold) - at least there was oil on the stick. We rested it for a while and then carried on very gently, and got home without further problems. Holding it down in lower gears seemed to help.

I pressure-washed the transmission oil cooler and got it completely clear, and I have had no problems in the 2 days since, although I haven't tried towing yet.

Questions:

  1. Could the two problems (engine and gearbox) be related? If so, why? Intercooler/engine oil cooler/radiator were not affected, and the engine temp was normal throughout.

  1. Assuming no further occurrences, could I have caused long-term damage to the autobox?

Anything else I should do?

Thanks for any info.

Reply to
Richard Brookman
Loading thread data ...

More likely to be a coincidence, I'd have thought.

Yes. By overheating the fluid it breaks down chemically, giving a massive reduction in the lubricating properties. Replace the fluid immediately, and again in a week or so (due to a fair quantity of the old oil remaining in the torque convertor) and it ought to be ok unless you have burnt the clutches.

Pray?

Badger.

Reply to
Badger

so Badger was, like...

'Swat I thought, but to happen on consecutive days, less than 20 miles apart, after a mucky bit of off-roading made me think they might be linked. Perhaps the early signs of an overheating box confused the EDC or something.

Hope I caught it in time. Seems normal at present. I'll change the fluid though.

Thank you, Mr Cheerful :-) I will, if I can remember his email address.

Reply to
Richard Brookman

ha ha. Seriously though, my own zf4HP22 autobox (in a 4.0v8 110 recovery vehicle) has started to show initial signs of wear, not surprising considering the sheer abuse it tolerates! The fluid is still clean and translucent but when idling in "P" the engine is stable at 850rpm, if I select "N" the revs drop and fluctuate by around 25-50rpm, dropping by the normal 100 or so on selection of "D" or "R". As far as I can remember, there's no difference hydraulically between P and N, I think I need to dig out the flow charts and check..... Might look into replacing it with a 4HP24 fitted with a manual (non-ecu controlled) valve block as I'm considering a 4.8 stroker kit......

Badger.

Reply to
Badger

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.