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Push-button doors: rustproofing & painting

After a bit of hassle with carriers, Marge is getting an early Christmas present: a new pair of doors.

They've arrived in some sort of yellow spray covering on the aly part and green-black on the steel frame. Now obviously I want to stop them rusting in future, and do the best paint job I can, so what's the best thing to do first, given I've plenty of time to sort it?

I was thinking of three options:

  1. Galvafroid poured through the frame. It certainly works on bare metal, but I've no idea what the inside ofthe frame is like, so it may not take.

  1. Waxoyl in the frame. It'll repel water for a while, but it's messy and IMHO not so good at penetrating

  2. Synthaproof/underseal: very smelly, but good water resistance and it does penetrate well. Disadvantage: hard to paint over if it gets in the wrong places.

Other question: is the yellow covering merely protective and temporary, or is it some sort of undercoat? If it's temporary, what's the best thing to clean down with first (assuming I need an etch primer underneath). I'm using NATO camo paint on top, as that matches what's on there now.

Yes, I will go look at Stephen Hull's excellent painting advice site too, and no, I probably can't run to Tekaloid (but I have got an HVLP spraying kit to hand).

Any thoughts appreciated...

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig
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The yellow (on aluminium) is an acid etch primer, (or should be). The greenish black (on steel) will be a factory primer that usually requires repainting.

This method may not reach all areas, Galvafroid is heavy stuff and doesn't penetrate too well into crevices, seams etc.

Use waxoyl *after* painting.

You can't guarantee underseal will reach all the inner areas either.

Try wiping over with a pre-wipe or panel-wipe which is a spirit so it won't damage any paintwork, but will remove all forms of contamination.

I've not really covered HVLP spraying, but I do intend to feature it.

When I replaced my series 2 door tops I literally poured synthetic primer into the frames and tipped them in different directions to make sure the paint had covered everywhere, after a few days I poured in an undercoat mix 50-50 with gloss to ensure added protection. I left the door tops for a week before fitting the window channels and glass.

Any paint that ran out the seams was simply wiped off with thinners. Then the interior and exteriors of the doors can be painted in whatever paint you like, synthetic, cellulose etc. When all the paintwork is completed, for maximun protection waxoyl the inner channels.

I'm not saying this is the best proven method, but it is an option.

Steve.

Reply to
Stephen Hull

In article , Stephen Hull writes [sage advice snipped merely for brevity]

That makes complete sense, except for one thing: I'm not sure what you mean by 'synthetic' primer. Is that alkyd or something else?

Sounds really good - will pursue it. The acid-etch primer is interesting (I think that is indeed what it is), as it sticks really well to the aluminium, but peels off the painted steel very easily. It's been sprayed around the edge of the door - I guess because of the folding over, and the stuff on the steel is overspray from that.

Many thanks for the thoughts.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

Synthetic is oil-based paint, Linseed oil, Alkyd, Polyurethane etc that can be thinned with turpentine, white spirit.

Regards,

Steve.

Reply to
Stephen Hull

In article , Stephen Hull writes

Got you now. Sounds like a good idea and I've a number of possible alternatives to use too.

Many thanks for the advice.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

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