Now faced with no way to remove the damn bolt, and I got saoked to the
> skin inbetween the rain showers...... grrrr
I've had a few of these stupid stupid stupid abominations out by cutting a slot in the sides of the head and putting an impact screwdriver into it, the type you thwack with a hammer to make it turn slightly. I suspect you might have trouble getting room to do that from the sound of it though...
Another gag I used was to cram one of those star-shaped driver things into the head, that worked OK.
On the pinz I've found somewhere where the use of those stupid heads is justified, 9 times out of 10 though there seems to be no earthly reason to use it instead of a sensible one.
On or around Wed, 27 Jun 2007 22:13:07 +0100, Ian Rawlings enlightened us thusly:
There's not a lot wrong with decent-quality hexagon socket head bolts - the problems start when people use the wrong or bad tools and round the thing out. you get very similar problems with ordinary hex-head bolts when people have buggered the head.
Simon: You're going to pull the engine anyway... maybe it'd be quicker then trying to work on it in the engine bay?
also, if the body's scrap, cut an access hole.
Failing that, a trawl around the usual suspects normally reveals new starters for non-silly money. I think I paid 60 quid for the one I got under similar circumstances, no exchange. Get the "EFi" one which is a smaller body and easier to fit.
The problem is that the driving force is being applied to the inside of a relatively thin wall, and by a tool of a relatively small diameter. If there's no surrounding obstruction a hex-head bolt of the same diameter provides a better surface to drive against and a larger diameter so stresses the head less. That's why I hate the blasted things unless they're sunk deep into a recess and the head is thick, giving a nice deep hole for the allen key.
Yeah, I find it easier to remove the starter for access to the torque converter bolts when working on the ground though.
Managed to shave a bit off an old M10 bolt I had laying around and force that into the allen key hole. Then welded that onto the allen bolt, and welded it it with the current up *very* high. The bolt was bright red at the end. Managed to get a ring spanner onto that, and eventually the bolt shifted, mind I was hanging onto the spanner with all my weight before it shifted.....
Starter has been fitted to Burrt, and he turns over a treat now, really really quickly! No more 5 seconds of cranking to get him going! The bolts have been tightened to 33lb ft, so hopefully these will be easier to remove in the future!
Being as this is an efi starter, it is considerably smaller than the Lucas one fitted to burrt. I had a quick measure with the tape measure, and there may be the clearance to allow the std rangie right hand manifold to fit, but I wont be able to find that out until the winter when I do the engine swap. Being as I have only tacked the manifold crack together as that is also a bugger to remove, it will recieve full treatment at the same time if I have to use it.
I'm leaning towards a crank regrind, new tappets and reseating the valves in the 3.9 before it goes in. Compression test showed all were above 160psi, but I will wait until I have the heads off and can see the bores before I make a final decision!
-- To reply direct rot13 me
bURRt the 101 Camper
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200TDi Disco with rotten floor
200 TDi DIsco, "the offroader"
1976 S3 Lightweight
hmm. 3.9efi manual with 5 months MOT+tax on it and a decent set of tyres. Whats it worth? Its approx 5 miles down the road which is nice :)
Will a 5 speed RR manual drop straight into a 101 if you swap the bell housing and the shafty bit? Wondering if this would be cheaper than a set of higher ratio transfer gears and i could also then flog my RR overdrive (which i gather is worth a few squid?)
On or around Thu, 28 Jun 2007 20:23:53 +0100, Simon Isaacs enlightened us thusly:
It'd be a big bonus if so.
remember there are 2 kinds of RR manifolds, 4-pipe and 2-pipe system off the manifold... they're not the same shape/size, obviously, and the differences might make all the difference - it'd not be hard to get the 2-pipe manifolds, down pipes and Y pipe.
I have a set and they are pretty good for most bolt removal, on a socket head bolt they would likely not work, as the head will be hardened, and the extractor will not be able to get a bite at it.
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