Bugger, rear ended in the snow last week by a thoroughly decent young chap who was mortified and is doing the decent thing. Luckily it's only the bumper that's damaged, the steelwork and end caps, so I'm going to replace with a HD all steel one - myself. I've had a look underneath and some of the bolts look rusty and awkward to get to. Are there any tricks to removing the rear bumper please? The Haynes and LR manuals aren't too specific. Cheers Graham
Bad language, WD40, an oxy torch and a dremel helped when I got one off the Corpse.
Steve
Graham Bowers wibbled
To add to Steve's reply ... shed-loads of grunt.
The two central bolts that 'hold' the bumper are right buggers to shift, and it might be necessary to use a torch/angle grinder/dremel. The end-caps are just awkward, especially the angled plates that have slots instead of holes in ... Landrover tolerances I guess ... ;)
Knew I forgot to mention something. And good eye protection, there's a lot of falling shit.
Steve
Thats why us Disco owners don't take one bottle of hair product into the shower we need three- shampoo, conditioner and Kurust.
Derek Disco 200Tdi 'Kato' Disco 300Tdi 'Miles'
Like I thought, its going to be a bugger. Cheers Graham
hehe, Derek, you forgot the Grecian 2000 and the Hair restorer you old wag :-))
Jock
Honest its just Ally oxide powder I aint really that grey :-) Derek
Ally oxide??? last time i saw it i was sure it was dandruff !!. hehe.....anyway, im doing my disco floor next weekend, finally got rid of the old RRC (rust and recycled cans) and bought a shed on 4 wheels. Due to the previous owner purchasing the "rust pack" option, there are virtually no inner wings, light boxes, wheel arches, sills or boot floor....excellent mpg due to being lightweight but rather draughty and wet on the off-road scene :-)).
Jock
if you need any strips of mild to make good the edges I've got a fair bit in the garage and a folder! I've got a couple of feet to make up once I get the tank out (bloody towbar!) and can do some serious cutting. Derek
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