Renewing bushes

Multiple jacks,, levers and brute force.

Lee

"Lee_D"

And a great big lump hammer...sometimes they move everso slightly...Having the prop on also resists movement back to where it needs to be to get the bolts through.

Lee

I polybushed my hybird during the build, and I found it easiest to *rest* the end that goes into the chassis mount in the mount ing hole and *not* fit the nut to it. I could then locate the holes at the front of the arm onto the axle by using a bottle jack to lift the arm into place. Tapping (!!!) with a hammer helped once you were close. As soon as a hole lines up, insert the bolt but do not tighten yet, and start on the other hole.

I tied a rope in a loop around the front axle and then to the front outrigger as tight as I could, and stuck a bar in the loop and twisted it to tighten to the loop and pull the axle back into place and then fit the nut onto threaded part of the arm and tighten it up.

One word of advice though, dont forget to fit the washer on the threaded end of the arm *before* starting all of this. How do I know this..........!!!

Simn

it is more like an aquired art driving a landrover on the road , but once used to them you wont look back .

need to check that the tracking is set "straight " , ie zero toe in or out , this makes them drive better .

check the oil in the swivel housings if the steering is tight and stays in one position when making a slight turn, they may be dry .

also check the bracket at bottom of axle , where the rear drag link passes under the axle, sometimes they can rub against the bracket ..

i allways run 36psi tyre pressure all round , have had various land /range rovers and this seems best for durability and driving .

On or around 12 Jul 2003 23:06:08 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (M0bcg) enlightened us thusly:

all tallies with my experience. If you get it toed out more than a smidgen it won't go straight, and if you have it toed in noticeably, it'll make the steering heavy.