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Morphs Morphing....

Right here the plan for Morph...

Imagine your stood behind a 101 Ambi and here what I want to acheive....

Doors open so that they are in line with the side of the body.

the tailgate is dropped down and a section of floor which is as long as the doors slides out from within. This also has sides (verticals) which go to the height of the box shaped seating / arches within Morph

Now then... on the inside of the doors will be a wooden pannel the width of the box / arches which is hinged at the bottom of the door. These (both doors) fold down and form seats.

On the roof I intend to create/make/beg /borrow/steal some sliders that afford a roof for over the doors to slide from below a roof rack.

Any ideas how I can fill what would be the hole at the back with something similar to ally what have you?

Also ideas about the slides for the winnebago style floor section that slides from within and need to carry the bulk of the stress.....I can only think of a Norm Abrahams workshop example but it involves 4" by 3 inch boards.

All the above will afford me an extra seating/eating are/double bunk or dependant on how strong the supporting structure will be double bunk beds :-)

Oh and hers a picture of my rear end.....

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Discuss......

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D
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All I can say is

i) we have a baby gate like yours ii) it'll never work

:-)

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

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Reply to
Tim Hobbs

NOOOOOOO!! Another red rag!!! Ahhhh...now I'll have to do it.......

;-)

Bugger...seriously ....I will!

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

"Lee_D"

I've just worked out the baby gate thing!

:-)

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

In a slightly strange twist, ours is used as a dog gate. Strange thing - they are all capable of jumping over it, but they rarely do, although Seth has been known to barge it over!

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

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Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Not used ours since the last house... recollections of the sound of two german sheaphards hopping over it when it was fitted two stairs up on a dogs leg in the stairs has suddenly come flooding back...

16 stone of German Shephard thundering up the stairs at 3 am focuses the mind.

Still maybe I can incorporate it in the design some how...well done.. another thing I'll no doubt be pondering over for the forseeable :-)

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Yup, I know what you mean (see below)

OK, a sort of 'slide out tray'?

And lock on to the upright 'rings' of the tray, thus extending the rear body format lengthways out of the back.

There'll be a gap at the top.

Are you talking about the gap at the top of the door where it meets the sliding roof, or the hole at the very back, the size of the closed doors?

If the latter, you could have additional outer doors on the rear doors, hinged where the roors usually meet (hope that makes sense), which then fold around to close the rear...

===\ / \/ BACK /\ ===/ \

(I don't do ASCIIart - use a fixed font like Courier to view)

Something like computer rack sliding rails, but bigger? The advantage of these is that they can come in several sections - thus not having one central (and therefore weak) pinion.

Well, I've been designing a way of keeping the rear doors open, in-line with the body, but this is simply using swing out bars from the roofrack which lock at 90 degrees, with drop down brackets for the doors to lock into. They work like an Easi-Awn, with a fabric tarp rolling along as the roof - so not as substantial as your plan, or anything which is more than a glorified awning really I guess.

But now you've got me thinking, and drawing little diagrams on post-its on my desk, and toying with the idea of going outside with a tape measure. The outcome of which, I'm sure, will mean that Charlotte may need to hurt you.

Reply to
Mother

Yup... I figured if the fixings were loose enough on the roof rack at least the edge at the very back will be snug...the rest could have canvas press stdded to the underside of the roof then to the outside of the door and press studded again,, hence water and draught proof.

Also could fit a couple of those boat hatches in the roof to form windows or access to the back of the roof rak once in extended mode.

Yep this was it. I guess if a door will take a spare tyre another skin should be no problem...Also with windows which also are inline with the existing windows then we still have some visibility to the rear when on the move. Well as much as it ever had anyway.

Er...I know what you mean but can't quite picture the sections bit...

:-)

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Lee,

drawer sliders - if you're into Norm, see if you can find the specs on the Billerica rebuild on "this old house" - they put a butchers block on sliders that could easily take the weight of someone sitting on it.

Rather than being a single slidy bit, they are sectional, and can take rather a lot of weight because of this.

HTH

Si

Reply to
Simon K

I'll check out the programs listings...they have a site you know....

I've been pondering this though now.... using the old strecher slide ( U shaped slide about 3 inches across the bottom and 1 1/2 inch up the sides and 6 feet long) place half of one on the floor within the 101.....then make 2 swing out arms a the back mounted to the rear crossmember...then clip in a rod / pole/ similar metal rsj with the two other sections of the strectcher slide such that they rest on the existing floor and inline with the othe slides....then it's just add the 4 machine mart trolley wheels I bought on the spur of the moment...Ta da!!!!

Not as tidy as slides but it's a start.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

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