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RR G Box clonk

RR Classic, 91, 3.9 Auto

I bought this RR as a work horse to shift my music equipment around and it does an admirable job. I bought it cheaply with a few known faults such as blowing exhaust, failed electric windows etc......all of which have now been cured.

The one factor that is of concern, which is apparent only when the vehicle is hot and has been run for quite a while, is a 'clonk' when shifting from drive into reverse.

There is barely a 'clink' (LOL) when cold but hot it seems a lot louder, are we talking lubricants or something a little more major?

AlunP

Reply to
Alun P
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AIUT it's caused by wear on the splines of the o/p shaft from autobox into the transfer box. IIRC the ultimate fate is stripped splines and no drive! My does the same which is REALLY annoying as I had an Ashcroft refurb autobox fitted not many years ago to my 88 RRC 3.5.

Somewhere in the NG you will find a link to a site showing the gruesome results.

The only way I ever reduce the clunk is to come to a *complete* stop before engaging reverse, select neutral, foot off the brake for a few moments, then foot hard on the brake and then engage reverse. Great if you are backing and filling into a space.

HTH

Richard

Reply to
Richard Savage

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 15:46:22 +0100, Richard Savage enlightened us thusly:

not normally on the auto box, ISTR. same effect on my 110 caused by worn front CV joints, might be worth a check.

Also, he's probably got a borg-warner transfer case on that'n, in which case it's very unlikely to be the infamous shaft wear, which mostly affects unmodified LT230s on LT77s and early R380s, AIUI.

however, with the same box/Tbox combo in the 110 I got a really loud clang on some occasions if shifting from forward to reverse too briskly. later decided that most of the play was in the front axle, and sure enough, the CVs were seriously worn. Only ever replaced one, mind, which started rattling on full lock.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:18:09 GMT, "Alun P" enlightened us thusly:

BTW, you identify the BW transfer box by the absence of a "DIFFLOCK" position on the transfer lever, it only moves forward and back, not side to side.

the BW has a viscous coupling instead.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

There is only forward and back selection on the transfer high>low ration lever, no diff lock option so must be BW. does that alter the diagnosis???

AlunP

Reply to
Alun P

On or around Sat, 11 Sep 2004 04:58:28 GMT, "Alun P" enlightened us thusly:

IMHO yes - I'd be very surprised if it was gearbox output shaft problems. The morse chain can be slack in the BW transfer box, but I'd check your propshaft joints, CV joints and axle splines. any or all could be worn, CVs especially if the swivels have been left dry or contaminated with water.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

our 95 disco does the same, clunk when hot, quiet when cold. spoke to several people and they all say rest at neutral for a couple of secs before going to D or R. It seems to help a bit. I dont the think spline thing affects the auto boxes ? Richard

Reply to
Richard

that would start to make sense actually, as on the odd ocassion, there is a stiffness on the steering when turning to the right, it seems the steering locks and the power steering 'fails', only to the right though, not left. turning back to the left and then to the right again clears the problem.this again could point tp front swivel joints or CV????

AlunP

Reply to
Alun P

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