RRC - No reverse gear!!!

My brain is dead...

I read the title of that as RRC - No reserve, and then skimmed the body of the post for an Ebay item number...

On or around Sun, 17 Jun 2007 12:50:56 GMT, "CJ" enlightened us thusly:

that's the opposite of the most common failure, which gives you no forward gears but retains reverse.

Badger can probably diagnose it. I've lost the thing with the power flow sequences.

I bought one like that, never did mend it. Ran it for two years no trouble, all I did was put the transfer box in low which made it easier for reverse to move it, then after I had reversed, change back into high and drive away.

Martin

I'll give that a try as a temp' fix but I really need to sort it out as I'm a gigging musician and there's a lot of tight parking at some of the venues. Don't want to try that one night and it doesn't work ... then have to get towed out of some alleyway at 2.00am :-(

Regards,

Colin

Sounds expensive then, I just CBA to sort it, Badger will know what the problem is.

Got your mail, will have a look in the books/think about it tonight and get back to you. Badger.

Ok, here's my best guess. You need to try selecting "1" and see whether there is engine braking available or whether it just freewheels. If there is engine braking, it's most likely the reverse interlock valve stuck within the valve block assembly. If no engine braking, then probable cause is failure of the "D" clutch within the box. There are loads of clutches that are controlled by the valve block assembly (a hydraulic "brain", if you like), using a combination of pump pressure, line pressure and governor pressure (a pressure relative to roadspeed) to cause cetain valves to move at certain roadspeeds. Basically, selecting drive at no speed causes the valve block to select the clutches in such a way that 1st gear is engaged, and at the same time allow a pressure feed to the 2nd gear valve. As road speed increases, the governor pressure builds until it is strong enough to cause the 2nd gear valve to operate, supplying pressure to the 2nd gear clutches and allowing a pressure feed to the 3rd gear valve and so on. When you select reverse, the line pressure causes a valve to shift (as long as there is no governor pressure acting against it - a safety feature to prevent blowing the transmission apart if reverse is selected at speed!) and pressure is applied to the "D" clutch. If you have no reverse gear, then either the clutch has worn out or there isn't any pressure getting to it. The "D" clutch is also applied in "1" to allow engine braking, hence the reason for selecting "1" to see if braking is present or not. Either way, it's looking like a box stripdown to effect a permanent cure, as whatever's caused the valve to stick will cause it to happen again in the future, assuming that's the fault. Hope this helps, Badger.

You haven't just changed the reverse light switch by any chance have you? I understand that on some boxes screwing the switch in too far messes with gear selection, although I can't remember if it prevents selection or drops a neutral like yours is doing. TonyB

AFAIUI, that only appllies with manuals, not the auto. Badger.

Thanks Badger, I'm sure you're right there. TonyB

Thanks so much for your reply, matey. I don't think I've ever had such a concise answer in any of the groups ... even I can understand the gubbins in the gearbox now :-)

Talked to Bobby at GEMM 4x4 today and, as you've suggested, he said the quickest way to sort it is to exchange it for a gearbox with a 'known' history because whatever's wrong would require a strip-down, as you said.

'Oily' suggested trying for reverse in low ratio and that trick worked just enough to get me parked at my gig today but it still had that feeling like the clutch was slipping i.e. I had to rev it quite high to get any movement from it at all.

The main reason I'm mad about buying this 'dog' (with more problems than the one that failed its MOT) is that I'm coming up your way this coming weekend to do Moray Golf Club on Friday (Amateur Open) and Forres Golf Club on Saturday ... and I bought the other car just to help get me throught he next few weeks of long distance gigs ... It didn't even get me through a few days!!!

Regards,

Colin

Thanks, matey. That trick worked just enough to get me parked at my gig today but it still had that feeling like the clutch was slipping i.e. I had to rev it quite high to get any movement from it at all.

But it got me through the gig and back home safely.

Thanks again.

Regards,

Colin

You're welcome. They ain't the black-magic (am I allowed to say that in these PC times we live in?) that most folks think they are, it's just a case of getting your head round the basic concept. The clever bit is the valve block, to design one physically must drive people insane, hahaha.

Don't know Bobby, but GEMM are pretty good. Give my regards to George if you see him.

Sounds like the "D" clutch has burnt out, possibly it's been dragging slightly for a while, most likely due to wear across a valve in the valve block assembly which would suggest a complete overhaul would be required. If you can find a tame fitter, it's an easy box to rebuild........

oops! It'll be worth it when it's fixed though! Drop in if you get a chance, I'm only 4 miles from Forres. badger.

In answer to your question about the car having 'engine breaking' in 1st ... The bloomin' engine doesn't have engine breaking in any gear!!!

Even with the automatic I tend to drive using the 'gears' i.e. I change down and use engine breaking just as I would with a manual car and, on my way up to Peterhead at the weekend, I noticed that there was no engine breaking in any gear: I had to use the breaks quite heavily because there was no discernable difference being made using the gears at all.

So, I guess the answer's the 'expensive one' i.e. a full strip down or put in an exchange gearbox.

Thanks again for the help, Badger. It really is appreciated.

Regards,

Colin