series door posts

HIYA GUYS N GALS,

Just deciding wether to replace my door posts as well as my footwells and just thought id ask here before i hack `em to bits.

i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?

also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt forwards,

thirdly, does anyone want to come and show me how there done :-)

this all started by me wanting to clean my rather bashed landy up for sale,

whilst im here i may as well as this as well......

theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and under landys bonnet. i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.

im not intending getting it soaked anymore, been their, done that.

cheers

andy

Reply to
Andy
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I'm going to guess that posts first might be the better way, while it is off you might find it easier to remove the footwell. I drilled out the welds on mine and fitted the pattern footwells in between the differing sheets of metal in the bulkhead. It made for a neater job, at least that's what I tohght on the right hand footwell. The left hand one was cut out and welded straight in, soon tired of the purist approach and it is just as strong :)

Whether you are doing it with the bulkhead in or out, I reckon a jig of some sort to use as a reference point once the posts are out might help, if only to keep the bulkhead from distorting or moving if it gets knocked etc while you are wrestling with it. Even a length of Dexion racking post tack welded into place is better than nothing.

I found that taking the seat box out made a big difference to getting in there. Before you try it and decide it isn't necessary to remove it, have a go from both sides. I'm left handed and found it a pig of a job doing the right hand footwell as I had to get my left shoulder right in there and allow for the welding mask. Another reason for not farting around with the left hand footwell.

Have a mate to watch you and the immediate area for things burning. You don't feel the weld spatter as it goes through the first two layers of clothing.

I've seen some pretty good insulation used in the building trade, it's a bit like lead sheeting in appearance, sometimes with an adhesive backing. Cuts well and does a good job on stopping panels drumming, not at all expensive compared to the retail kits you can buy. You'll have to ask at the desk if they have anything that matches that description, I forget who made it, I blagged it from a load of offcuts from a building site, I think it was used to stop parts of a large ducting conduit from making a load of noise. Make patterns up out of paper then transfer the one that works to the soundproofing. Wilkinsons (or Wilko at

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have 5 gallon tins of black roofing felt adhesive for £6.50 that does a good job of holding it in place. The website doesn't seem to show half of their shop stock but they are worth checking out.

Reply to
wayne

You are talking to a guy who has em as rotten as any

My footwells I have done what the previos guy done and stuck em back up with filler and fibreglass. Well if it lasts me a year then that will do.

Door posts is seriosly F... U know the rest and since that ain't an MOT matter I am going to use the same solution as the bastard that passed it on to me, at least I will know what I filled in.

Yep if she rolls, she is gonna squash me, but I am made of strong stuff and face it I have been in a lot less safe motors, if I got meself an etype I reckon that would be a lot bigger risk.

I have never rolled anything yet and I have been in a landie at 45% which was scary but I reckon I can go a lot further than I think I can notwithstanding you are not supposed to descend a slope on a diagonal not that it stops me.

Yep your fundamental idiot that is me :)

You say you can't do it and I will just to prove you wrong .

Reply to
Larry

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