Suspension Bushes.

G'day all.

Just a query about my LWB series 3. i splashed out on a complete set of those polyurethane suspension bushes. got stuck into it this morning, got the shackle and both bolts out of the left rear, only to find the standard bushes are incredibly hard to budge. i tried a little "persuasive percussion" with a lump of wood, and a bodged up press using a D clamp, but to no avail. any one got any advice on how to get these little buggers out??

Thanks.

Sam.

Reply to
Samuel
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If its got a metal insert

*Slightly oversize drill and drill at an angle

*Hacksaw the metal tube

*Burn out with a gas torch

Good luck

John H

Reply to
Hirsty's

I'd vary that slightly.

Heat up (we're talking gas torch not hair dryer!) the metal insert to free the bond to the rubber. Knock out the insert. Don't worry about burning the rubber - that's the next step. You should now have access to hacksaw through the outer tube.

Heating should be relatively localised - you don't want to overheat the spring leaf if that's where you're working.

Incidentally, are you talking about the spring eye bushes or the bushes in the chassis? If it's the chassis ones, 'little buggers' is a bit of an understatement when it comes to refitting unless the polyurethane ones are easier.

Reply to
Dougal

Yes, cut em or burn em. You won't drive them out unless you have a hydraulic press, it's difficult enough driving the new ones in without one.

Generally speaking the accepted method is to remove the centre, usually by drilling or burning the rubber away, and then pass a hacksaw blade through the outer, attach it to the hacksaw and cut through the outer shell. The resulting gap will allow the bush to be tapped out.

Alex

Reply to
Alex

Thanks for the advice fellas. i was hoping i wouldn't have to get my drill out. i am always a little scared using drills and oxy torches etc. around sprinf mounts and other really important things. i'm a little paranoid about cutting metal that i shouldn't cut. anyway, i'll have a crack at it next weekend maybe.

Cheers

Sam.

Reply to
Samuel

Sam

I did this job on my RR classic about a year ago before I left the UK.

- the heat you need to use to burn the rubber away will not affect the spring tempering or anything mettalurgical. Do make sure you do it outside and try not to breathe the fumes, and keep the melted burning rubber blobs away from anything that matters, like your legs and arms or garage floor - it won't come off. Its the easiest way of doing it.

When you saw through the outer casing of the rubber bushings you need to do it carefully and keep inspecting the sawcut you are maing with a good light - you can see when you have cut through the bushing into the "socket" it fits in. You'll never get the central bit cut through completely but you don't need to. Just drive a screwdriver down one side of the cut casing and it will split the "uncut " bit. and ten easily drive it out.

Puttin PU bushings in is easy - you can use grease. and a piece of studding a couple of nuts and some appropriately sized sockets.

Jon

Reply to
jonse

i know what burning rubber or plastic does to your skin, not pleasant. i think might have a crack at it with a drill first. chuck the biggest bit into the drill and extract the inner tube and the rubber. i am fairly sure a

13mm bit should do the job.

well, that is a relief. just a pity the standard ones are such a bastard to get out.

Thanks.

Sam.

Reply to
Samuel

The risk of hot rubber on your skin is tiny if you take just the simplest of precautions. You are applying the heat from the side of the vehicle - there's no need to be under the hot stuff.

On the other hand drilling out a rubber-mounted bush unless you can restrain it some way will be an awful job. I wouldn't even consider it as sensible.

Having removed the insert you then have to get through the rubber to apply your hacksaw to the outer tube. That's another foul job unless you burn the rubber out.

Apart from Jon's recommendation to do the job outside, I would only add that it's a good idea to have a water sprayer handy to keep things under control.

Reply to
Dougal

What is this rubber that resists a drill and hacksaw blade? I've got to admit all this burning out has had me wondering for a while. At first I thought there wasn't a hole through the middle but it appears that there is and sleeved so what is the problem with threading a hacksaw blade through the hole, cutting through the sleeve and rubber and finally the outer. Even the burner outers hacksaw through the outer...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Because there's a 70% or more chance that you've had to cut the bolts because they're corroded into their sleeves thus rendering those holes most definitely blocked!

Reply to
AJG

Whilst that is frequently true it was not among my original thoughts.

I was not suggesting in my original comment that the use of a drill and hacksaw on rubber were impossible. However my personal experience has been that, even with a new blade, certain rubbers (including those in this type of bush) are not easily cut with a hacksaw especially if you are working in an awkward location.

The drilling of the insert easily requires it to be held stationary. Unless you do something unusual to achieve that, the insert is 'floating' both rotationally and axially in the rubber. It's not an easy thing to drill.

Most people will have access to a gas torch. I can only suggest that to use it is the easiest way to get these bushes out.

Reply to
Dougal

Didn't someone make a tool called a bushwhacker or similar just for this? As I've just ordered a new front suspension for mine I have an interest....

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

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Hmmm, gas torch looks like the way to go....

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

mmmm, interesting looking piece of kit. but at 160 pounds, i might see what i can come up with. s'pose it wouldn't be all that hard to make a similar thing in the back shed hey?? all you need is a long bolt, then some sort of cylinder thingy that pushes against the chassis etc. i'll have a think about it.

Sam.

Reply to
Samuel

You will need to use a high tensile bolt as large as will fit through the bush. You can do it with an assortment of sockets or you can make the tools with a lathe if you have one. JD

Reply to
JD

There's summat on Chris Perfect's site about hiring one, but you could probably rig something fairly cheaply.

Let me know how you get on - I've just ordered all the parts for mine.

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Why high tensile, is that because of the large forces likely to be required to get the bush out?? it would have to be a little over twice the length of one bush wouldn't it, which would make the bolt about 6 inches.

i didn't think of using sockets. that sounds like a good idea, just need one socket large enough to go around the bush, so about 50 ml, and something just wide enough to sit flush around the bush.

unfortunately i don't have a lathe.

i'll have a crack at it during the week and see what i can do.

cheers.

Sam.

Reply to
Samuel

Yes, you may get away with a normal bolt, but it is likely that you will break it if the bushes are as tight as they usually are. Oil the thread anyway to avoid stripping it.

When fitting new bushes put antiseize compound on the outer and inner sleeves to make it easier next time. JD

Reply to
JD

i am fitting a new set of them fandangled polyurethane bushes which, from what i've heard on the grapevine, are not as much of a turd to fit and extract. but we'll see hey??

Sam.

Reply to
Samuel

They are easier to fit, and also easier to remove, but do have drawbacks. JD

Reply to
JD

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