Wiper Fuse

I have had problems with the original switches on my 90 especially the wiper switch which constantly fused as you say and the light switch which broke inside and burnt out some wiring. The wiper switch was a bugger as it falls apart as soon as you try to remove it, at the moment because I removed the strange spring inside the switch I have no flick/wipe but the 2 speeds are OK, will need to get \ new switch IDC but at least it doesn't keep fusing anymore.

Hi Bob. Thanks for your reply, I also discovered that the wiper switch isnt very robust as the roller ball that makes the contacts for the various positions fell out when I removed the switch hence why I swapped it for a known item, my problem is I think the igition switch as the wiper fuse blows with both the wiper motor & switch disconnected, Dr Haynes wiring diagram states that the reversing light switch is on the same circiut, so I have also disconnected that but still the fuse blows, thanks.

If I'm looking at the correct wiring diagram the wiper shares the fuse with the brake lights and the indicators.

Do this logically: disconnect all the output cables from the fuse in question the replace in turn and see which is the problem. The aforementioned lights are commoned on one of the outlet cables, the wipers on the other. You'll be able to separate the brake and indicator circuits at the brake light switch.

Don't waste time/money on an ignition switch - I can't see the slightest reason for it being the problem. You need to be looking on the downstream side of the affected fuse.

Have you a wiring diagram? Could you understand it if I sent you a copy? Is your e-mail address valid?

Correcting myself - rubbish!

It's the reversing lights as you say that share the fuse not the brake/indicators.

You must disconnect the output circuits at the fuse box otherwise the cable between the fuse and first/later components is still in the circuit and if shorted to earth will give rise to the sort of problem you report.

I will disconnect the outputs as you have suggested, my email is valid so if you have a better circuit diagram than the Haynes one I would be very grateful for a copy, many thanks.

"GrahamLR110" wrote ((SNIP))

I've sent you a scan of the one from my original 1986 handbook. 4 scans as it's bigger than A4 plus two pages of Key. Hope it helps.

Got that one!

Bob,

Many thanks, all received.

Graham

You're the reason I had it available, bloody scanner has since decided it doesn't like Windows 7. 64 bit.

Bob, The circuit diagram you mailed me was a great help thanks, turned out to be the blower motor is the cause of my problem, now I have the job of reassembling all the wiring looms & dash that I took off/out for the investigation.

Seized solid?

Nige, I haven't had time to check if seized but it was blowing a 15 amp fuse instantly, as a new blower motor isnt very expensive I might just purchase a new one.

What a job to do though, also there's a resistor too.

Paddocks assured me today that it comes complete with the resistor pack.

Easy way to check if it's siezed, take off the wing top vent & poke the fan, mine was solid.....

How much did you pay btw?

Nige, Genuine 9k miles, 12 month T&T =A31500

heh, i meant the heater motor :)