12v impact wrench

I was wondering if these are any good for light diy-ing, spotted one in a local shop for £15 with 17-22mm sockets, case, leads to connect to battery and lead for cig lighter, I was just wondering if it was handy to leave in the boot or for diy when changing a wheel or undoing any other bolts. Not sure how much grunt they have or how much use so thought would ask ?

Worth a punt or leave well alone ?

Reply to
Pete
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I have got one that lives in the boot. I would not recommend it, it has a strange action whereby it spins up to speed inside and then releases in a thud, it can undo things, but it doesn't feel like it will undo the really stubborn stuff. Buy an extending half inch drive wheel wrench, that will be far more use to you and cheaper.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

For wheel changing, Lidl etc often have a telescopic breaker bar which takes 1/2" drive sockets. Supplied with one reversible socket which gives two of the common sizes. Standing on that will shift any wheel nut.

I do have one of those 12v impact drivers bought from Maplin at a very good price when they couldn't shift them. And it's excellent. Undid the crank pulley bolt on my SD1 auto easily. Which is torqued to a high setting.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I have one from Maplin which works as you say and it does undo very tight stuff. The action is weird if you're used to a conventional impact air or cordless driver. But it works. I don't carry it in the car - as you've said one of those telescopic breaker bars is better for wheel changing.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

snip

I have a grey Maplin unit, cost me something like 19.99 a few years ago. As others have said it has a strange run up to speed then single thump action instead of the expected 'rat, tat, tat' of the repetitive thumps you get off a pneumatic tool. It did a great job on removing the engine and clutch nuts from my maxi scooter without me having to buy or make a holding device to stop the alloy pulleys revolving. Also used it on car crankshaft pulley when changing cam belt, exhaust nuts and an engine mounting oh and the cars wheel studs. In the case of the bike pulleys I also used the impact tool to tighten the nuts. Not the ideal way I know but I marked the original nut position with a couple of scribed marks then having initially tightened it up with a socket wrench, finished the final tightening with the impact tool. The single thump action enabled me to easily establish how far to tighten.

Reply to
Gio

Just my experience too. Excellent device at the price. Especially if you don't have a supply of compressed air.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Or shear the stud/bolt. Either way the wheel comes off.

Reply to
Peter Hill

You've sheared a wheel stud/bolt? I'd suggest you take much more care over your car maintance. Because it's a danger on the roads like that.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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