Allegro problem

I have a 1982 Austin Allegro, 1.3 A-series engine with only 8,000 miles on the clock. I've had it a 18 months and done 1,000 miles in it, previously stood for 10 years.

Problem is the points have burnt out twice after approx 500 miles. Changed them and the coil both times, but why does it keep happening?

Someone suggested the ballast resistor may be at fault but the manuals I have don't really mention it.

Easiest option would be to change to electronic ignition, but it's not cheap (over £100) unless anyone knows any different. I'd really like to get the the bottom of the orignal problem before taking this option.

Thanks in anticipation, Paul, W.Yorks

Reply to
Paul
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The message from "Paul" contains these words:

Possibly a dead/dying capacitor. When you open the points in an ignition system the energy stored as a magnetic field in the primary has to go somewhere, and it's the capacitor's job to help absorb it. Without it, it'll eat away at the points very rapidly. It's the little cylindrical thing inside the distributor with one wire coming out of the end attached in parallel with the points. Also make sure it's properly screwed down as it relies on the case as the other terminal.

If you're really keen and don't mind your Allegro [1] being non-original you could always scrounge a distributor from a Metro, some of which had contactless ignition.

Some ignition systems have a six volt coil which is usually run via a ballast resistor from twelve volts. During starting the ballast is shorted out so that you get a cracking good spark. Can't remember whether the Allegro had such a system but I don't think it did.

[1] Good luck with the Allegro - I adored mine and was very sad to see it go when I got a company car, but I couldn't really have both at the time. Don't let the philistines here tease you about it, it was a splendid car once they dropped the silly square wheel.
Reply to
Guy King

I trust you've obeyed the golden rule - Always change the condenser when changing the points.

??

Steve

Reply to
shazzbat

Oh, I have been down this road with my RL and then some ...... the points are burning , why,because the coil is passing too much current is the only realistic reason for this happening. Duff condenser would give a missfire. Buy a new coil , making sure that you get the appropriate sort , ballast or non ballast. Remount the coil away from the engine, on the bulkhead or inner wing for example . The vibration from the engine kills the coil. On the subject of electronic ignition Maplins do an excellent kit that costs about a tenner ...... you keep the points but they only pass a tiny current and so last for ever.

steve the grease

>
Reply to
R L Driver

As said, it's the condenser. Don't buy an Intermotor replacement.(If they are still in business -it's been a long time). Duff kit. DaveK.

Reply to
DaveK

Usually a sign of a duff condenser I think, but could be poor quality parts. Lucas "Quickfit" (I think they were called) were dreadful for wear on the heel of the points and as I recollect seemed to get pitted quickly.

I did fit a kit to my old Marina which consisted of a collar for the dizzy spindle, which had 4 small pieces of metal in it, and a magnetic sensor which replaced the contact points, plus a small black box. Went 60,000 miles without any need for adjustment or wear. 60k was a lot of miles for one of those cars - almost a lifetime, compared to the "Just run in" mileage on a modern engine.

But I'm blowed if I can remember who made it, or even if they are still available.

But is there an Alegro owner's club out there?

Reply to
Richard Murphy

My old 1 litre micra did about 10000 miles on points, then one day started spluttering. A quick clean of the points, then a regap sorted the problem ... only for it to re-occur two days later .... another clean, then another failure prompted a condensor change ... the car ran another 5000 miles until i sold it, complete with spare points in the glove compartment.

Aside from this, i think on most older cars there is a + feed from the key which runs through a ballast resistor, then to the coil ... the other side of the coil runs through the points/condensor in parallel to ground. When cranking an additional live feed from the start position of the key connects to the coil directly ... bypassing the resistor and increasing the power to the coil for starting purposes.

I've seen old cars without ballast resistors, but i'm sure an allegro has one buried somewhere .... unless the unions called a strike on the day when ballast resistors were fitted???

Reply to
FEo2 Welder

All I can say is Wow - an Allegro !!!!!! Still running today !!!! I take my hat off to you, and keep on running !!

Reply to
Stuart Gray

Best bet is definitely to go to a breakers, buy a ditributor and coil from a metro with electronic ign (d reg onward) Very easy to fit and you can ignore it indefinitely.

If all the points system is in good condition it will still need regular attendance every year or so.

mrcheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

Condensor is knackered. Its a small cylindrical part linked to the points by a wire.

Reply to
Conor

I was expecting "preferably near a bus stop, or have a taxi booked" when I read that ;).

Reply to
Doki

8,000 miles on

previously

miles. Changed

manuals I

it's not cheap

That must be for a conventional breakerless conversion, but I recall in the 70's and 80's so called electronic conversions were available for a few quid. I believe Maplin even sold a kit for the electronic box.. IIRC the original distributor and coil was still used, with the box of tricks connected to it. The box reduced the current across the points to so little that they no longer burnt, but still triggered the HT to the plugs in the same way as before. The more sophisticated ones increased the HT voltage as well. I fitted one to an old Escort van which could be a bugger to start on a cold morning. After fitting it started perfectly every time. I've still got one kicking around somewhere in my garage, but don't ask me to find it. Try a google search. I'm sure someone will have one or know how to make one. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

The message from "Mike G" contains these words:

Simpler just to take a complete distributor from a Metric Minnow or a Maestro 1.3 which also had electronic ignition. It should be a straight swap, even the wiring's near enough the same if not identical. Just take the old distributor with you so you can check the drive fitting at the end's the same.

If you're cunning you'll take one off a G-reg or later and pinch the unleaded cylinder head at the same time.

Reply to
Guy King

They still do, although it's a Vellerman one. Negative earth only.

VE00 at 14.99.

Vellerman kits are among the easiest to make even for the inexperienced. Or I'll make it for a pint. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

Yes I knew I'd forgotton to mention something - condensor changed twice - problem persists.

Cheers Paul, W.Yorks

Reply to
Paul

Yes there is and I'm in it. The magazine comes out every two months and they have a "Dr. Aggro" section where you can write in for help with Allegro problems.

Cheers Paul, W.Yorks

Reply to
Paul

Cylinder head.........yes that's another one I've been considering, but that's for another thread another time I think!

Cheers Paul, W.Yorks

Reply to
Paul

Thanks to everyone for their help - lots of things to try there. I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers Paul, W.Yorks

Reply to
Paul

Would that explain the couple of Allegro's I've seen, buried in walls, with one suspension system (wheel, hub, damper, spring, CV & driveshaft) poking out at a jaunty angle?

Pete.

Reply to
Pete Smith

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