Audi 100 2.3E avant 1988 fuel pump - part 2

I asked here about a month ago about fuel pump location for '88 Audi

100 2,3E. I found it, and it looks like it died. When I turn the key there is +12V for few seconds at the terminal I marked (+) here:

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So I think that fuse and fuel pump relay are OK. Also there is ground at (-). Other two terminals are probably for fuel gauge.

I connected battery charger directly to the (+) and (-), and there was a strong buzzing sound from the charger (50 Hz I guess), but it looks to me that the fuel pump does not turn, like it is seized.

How do you get to it? Turn the metal ring anticlockwise. Anything else?

And what for are three hoses? One delivering fuel to the engine (1), and one return hose. What is third one for?

Reply to
Yvan
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Do you have the manual for the car / K-jet?

I would guess the extra hose is for the tank vent - probably runs to a charcoal cylinder somewhere.

Reply to
Doki

Nedavno Doki napisa:

No, I do not have a manual for the car, but you are probably right, it might be for the tank vent.

Is fuel pump serviceable part, or you can only replace with new one?

Reply to
me

Don't know your vehicle but assuming injection many run the pump for a few seconds then stop (to prime the system) if you just switch the ignition on. They stop to avoid flooding the engine if an injector is leaking and also to avoid running down the battery as they take a fair bit of current. Cranking the engine causes it to run as well, and then a signal from the ECU when it starts.

A battery charger isn't designed to do this and may well not provide sufficient current. Can you try a good battery instead?

Feed from tank?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Nedavno Dave Plowman (News) napisa:

How much current does the fuel pump draw? I think that it is fused with

15 amp fuse.

I'll try with the good battery tomorrow.

Reply to
Yvan

Mine is fused at 10amps - but includes a series resistance.

Very few domestic battery chargers will supply a genuine 15 amps - regardless of what they claim. 8 amps or so peak is more like it even with an expensive one.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I turned the metal ring anticlockwise, disconnected three hoses, and pulled all out.

I connected fuel pump to the battery, and I could feel a sort of click. I reversed the polarity, and did that several times but no luck. I than taped the pump with a wooden stick while it was connected (correctly and reversed polarity), and after a few taps it started do work.

Returned the pump and everything else as it was, and the car started nicely.

Perhaps I have to start it more often (I do this once a month). But I do not have spare battery, so I have to transfer it from the car I use regularly. Any other thought how do I prevent this to happen again?

Reply to
Yvan

plenty of clean fuel in the tank should stop it, you could even add a small amount of diesel to a tank full to give a bit of lubrication. an old weak battery should still have enough power to spin the fuel pump

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Nedavno Mrcheerful napisa:

I try not to add to much fuel in it the tank, as it was suggested (in this newsgroup IIRC) that it can turn to jello. There is enough fuel that fuel pump is not dry.

The car is not used, so I just start it up once a month.

Since the car is not used I connected battery to a charger that is controlled by a timer, so it automatically turns on and off. But while I was away for a month timer broke and the battery was destroyed.

Reply to
Yvan

There is no good reason not to keep the tank full, a full tank suffers less from condensation (which is what will have caused the pump to stick), petrol will not deteriorate for at least a year (in the UK probably two years would be Ok), you could then drain and refill, use the fuel up in another vehicle, that way the only cost is the labour to change it.

Buy a modern charger and it can be left connected indefinitely without harm to the battery or significant running costs.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

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