Bloody Focus

Engine warning light on tonight when I drove down to Budgens. I'm beginning to wonder if this is going to be my last Ford. If I remember them all
correctly I've had six over the years starting with my first ever car, a Mk1 1300 Escort estate in the 70s. That was ok and so was the Sierra I bought in the early 90's. The Mk2 Fiesta XR2 was a cheap and cheerful heap that never let me down but the XR2i that followed it was a POS that got pensioned off when I drove down a flooded road and the inside filled up with water through the holes in the floorpan. The Mondeo 2 litre Ghia was nice to drive but expensive to fix the clutch and all the suspension bushes. The Focus 2.0 ESP has been so so with brake pads and disks both gone at 34k, clutch a bit juddery and engaging near the floor at only 36k, noisy gearbox, rust on the passenger door and then the inside misting up and wet carpets with the dreaded pollen filter debacle. But it goes round corners like a go kart.
I know the rear wheel bearings tend to collapse at 30k but that's easily sorted, especially in advance rather than after they've gone and chewed up the ABS disks. The engine warning light has caught me a bit off guard though. Can't be the cat at only 36k surely? Oil and water levels are fine but it is a bit thirsty on short trips. I'm wondering if a coolant temp sensor has gone. Water temp gauge and heater work fine and it starts and drives perfectly normally.
Anyone got a clue as to the likely cause or known problems with this model? -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
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On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 19:23:01 -0000, "Dave Baker"
What fault code is it giving?
--Nick.
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wrote:

model?
Haven't got a clue. I don't have a fault code reader. If I did I probably wouldn't be asking the question. -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
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On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 20:02:27 -0000, "Dave Baker"

I wonder if the good ol' Paperclip trick works with a Focus...
--Nick.
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Wot - delete the whole thing like you do with a new installation of MS Word?
--
Skipweasel.
In the beginning was the word.
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wrote:

No :)
--Nick.
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snipped-for-privacy@zetnet.co.uk says...

I was thinking "punch it's f*cking lights out when it looks like I'm writing a letter" but yes, I take your point.
--
James Dore,
IT Officer,
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You don't need a fault code reader on modern fords just hold down the trip meter while turning on the ignition you can then scroll through lots of diagnostic info including fault codes.
Dilbert
wrote:

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0xF0RD = Fix Or Repair Daily?
--
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On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 21:11:59 +0000, Mike Tomlinson

Found On Road Dead
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Nick wrote:

May be the lambda sensor. I will now change mine every 40k with the cam belt (on the Vectra) and at the 40k service on other cars. The improvement in fuel economy is worth the outlay. They seem to wear out (or I suspect get contaminated) and react to O concentration slower, the Vectra noticed before one died (only did 20k on the rear one!) by throwing a light on, the older stuff only throws the light on when it's failed and locked to a set voltage.
--
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See that blue oval badge on the front. That's the cause of all your problems.
Get a nice reliable Alfa Romeo instead ;-)
--
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300
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wrote:

model?
Or a cheap-as-chips Bentley.
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beginning
Mk1
in
never
through
ESP
the
model?
Hold down trip reset button, power up ignition to position II, then tell us what the P0xxx code shown in the trip counter LCD screen is..
Tim..
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us
HA !!!!!!
Bloody modern cars with their unfathomable new fangled electrickery bits. Tried that and only managed to reset the trip meter. Did a Google search to find out a bit more like you have to hold the button down for up to 10 seconds until it says TEST and then press it more to cycle through the functions.
Anyway, panic over. Turns out to be code 9318 - which Google says is 'Battery voltage low' - which is hardly surprising as the furthest it's been for a month is the 1/2 mile nightly trip to Budgens with the fan and all the screen heaters on. Poor little car needs a run or a session on the battery charger. I just wasn't expecting it to go to Defcon 3 because the battery is getting a bit flat. Proper cars used to have a nice simple voltmeter and an ammeter, not a bloody generic 'Danger Danger Will Robinson' warning light that immediately makes you cack yourself because you think several hundreds of quids worth of bits in the engine management system have just died.
Ok I like some of the modern electrickery bits like how cars with EFi just start and run so nicely from cold, and lecky windows and central locking and being able to adjust the passenger door mirror from the drivers seat but sometimes, well fairly frequently actually, I yearn for a car with a single SU carb, a coil, distributer and adjustable tappets where I can fix any damn thing that goes wrong with it with a set of spanners, a socket set and a selection of different sized hammers. -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
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and
single
damn
You forgot to include a small roll of fencing wire. :-) I once drove a MM over 50 miles, after using the length I carried to make a hand throttle when the accelerator cable broke. That was fun. Also came in handy to tie things, like when the exhaust or mounts broke. Modern cars may not breakdown as frequently as the pre electronic ones, but when they do, there's often nothing you can do at the side of the road, no matter how good a mechanic you are. Mike.
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damn
Me too - After finding a number of the problems with the Metro were bits that "don't fail in that way", namely the leccy bits on the dizzy. Had it been a proper points and condensor in there, I'd have tracked them down months ago. Instead taking the advice of experts (who do know there stuff) led me a merry little dance all around the engine bay. God knows what it'd be like with a more modern car, with sensors for *everything*. I've not had a breakdown yet that I haven't been able to bodge around to get me home, bar a totally blown diff, and a snapped crank. In a new car, I'd be buggered if I could bodge round an electrickery management system to limp home.
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A dwell meter was well worth having with a points setup. It will also show up problems on the LT side of an electronic one. And show injector duration.
--
*I like cats, too. Let's exchange recipes.

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Dave Baker (NoEmails) wrote:

tell
bits.
search to

10
the
it's been

all the

battery
battery is

and an

light
hundreds
died.
just
locking and

but
single
any damn

and a

Poor car, only doing 1/2 mile trips. I can't understand why you bothered driving there.
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Well I like to give it a run every day, even if only a short one, to make sure it hasn't suddenly started pinking. You can't be too careful about pinking you know. Once it starts, often for no apparent reason, it's a bugger to stop and you can easily become obsessed about it. -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
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