Can you teach me more about lug bolts & related tire tools?

or use a luggage weight scale , attach at (for example ) one foot from the drive head of the torque wrench and pull till the wrench clicks, read scales and see if it matches what the torque wrench is set to. Alternately give the torque wrench to a test station for re-calibration.

possibly because they locate in the tool that puts on all the wheel nuts at the same time.

no because some force will just be twisting the bar, Imagine a bar a mile long, you twist one end with a known force, the other end would not move.

better to leave the tyres alone, rotating the position of tyres went out of fashion about 60 years ago.

But don't most people jump on it using their whole body weight ? :)

or just clamp the wrench's drive in the vise. Measure from axis, add weight. This is simple arithmetic not rocket science.

OK - like a circlip type clip to retain the nut in the tool?

That would make sense.

I never rotate any tyres What's the point? When one wears out I replace it.

Most sensible answer yet.

I guess people used to be bored before TV was invented.

Yes, in the educated world this type of nonsense has mainly disappeared but I suspect the original poster lives in the USA where frequent tyre rotation and 6K oil changes are promoted in order to keep the car service industry alive - or else they have poorer quality tyres and oil.

The main thing is to have all nuts tightened the same. With in some limits, the actual torque is not all that important as long as the wheel does not come off,or you strip or break the bolt.

You may be right, but that is the first I have heard grip will be reduced if regularly swapping tyres.

The whole point of moving tyres is to promote even wear.

Can you cite any article proposing a long term loss of grip through tyre rotation? I couldn't find any, apart from the time of replacing with new tyres.

This article says quite the opposite:

That makes too much sense for Usenet! :)

I guess there are two faults with a 20" extension bar that a 2" extenstion bar wouldh't have then.

1. Some of the measured torque is wasted in twisting the bar, and,
2. Any extension bar not at 90 degrees to the nut also changes the torque.

Both effects are probably slight - but perhaps measurable?

That "teloscopic torque wrench" was a new tool to my eyes! (Too bad it doesn't take a socket because it's 17/19 & while I need 21mm).

It must be a clever internal mechanism that calculates the torque correctly when you can change the distance along the lever!

Truth be told, I've used my appreciable body weight for /removing/ lug bolts ... but never for tightening them.

It's still nice to know that you can get the same angle effect out of a six point socket that you can out of a 12-point socket, simply by rotating the

Personally, my tools just "grew" over time, where I have some 12 points and some 6 points where some are normal sockets, deep sockets, and impact sockets, where I wish I had known what I'm learning in this thread in the beginning.

Seems to me that the /first/ set anyone should get are normal length & deep six-point sockets (both metric & SAE).

The metric & SAE 12-point sets should come next, I would think.

certainly, but there is no need for such precision in this application.

Possibly because with rotating tyres to even out the wear at some point you will end up with 4 tryes that have little tread with no/little grip on any wheel.

By not rotating tyres, and assuming no 4 wheel drive, two tyres will wear a lot faster than the other two. Replacing these worn tyres in pairs possibly results in an average greater overall thread for 100% of the time.

I realize all the responses (so far) to this post were trolls or jokes, but if you were actually serious, please do read my explanation below of what I feel is the inherent value in rotating tires periodically.

In my case, the suspension is aligned (caster, camber, and toe anyway), and tires are selected, mounted, and balanced (statically), and pressurized, and repaired (from the inside with a patchplug), and rotated by me, so everything about those tires is up to me, and not to a mechanic who is paid by the hour who might skip some of the steps that I do (see below) to save time.

Of course, I can only meticulously statically balance the wheel-and-tire assembly, but the dynamic-balance test of driving at speeds shows no dynamic imbalance that can be felt by the driver.

- I inspect the entire carcass for pebbles & shards as shown here from this weekend.