Today I mounted & static balanced my 30th tire in about five years, where
each time I do this easy job, I learn new tricks to make it even easier.
For example, the "drop center" trick that Clare taught me was, by far, the
most critical trick of all. And, this time, I learned that it's a bad idea
leaving the packing tape on the tires as it makes it harder to seat the
bead if the beads are bent inward versus pushed out a bit.
While I've done all sizes from 15" wheels to 17" wheels, these 15" P225/75
Optimo H724 tires have thick sidewalls that make it a bit more difficult
than the 99V passenger car tires to break the 1st bead and seat the 6th
One mistake I made was to leave the packing tape still on the tires while
they waited for me to find my "round tuit", where the pinching in of the
beads made seating the tire problematic for the few seconds that it takes
to pop the bead into place.
I had to ask a second person to help pull up the upper bead with one hand
and a knee while I pushed up from below with two hands, where another trick
I learned long ago was to adapt an airgun to screw into the Schrader valve
so that filling it with air during the bead-seating process is essentially
This mountain eats up everyone's tires, which _never_ get the claimed
mileage (not even close) but I can't use the warranty because I can't prove
that I do all the work myself.
Cost savings at $20/tire = $600 minus about $200 for tools = $400 to date,
but the real value is the satisfaction of being able to do it myself.
Here are some photos, just so you see what it looks like.
o This SUV needs to be taken in for a front-end alignment:
Breaking the 1st bead takes a couple of minutes:
The outside edge of the front tires wears too much:
TREADWEAR is said to be 500 (but it won't get that):
The tire valves are about 1-1/2 inch long (.453):
I replaced the valves with all-metal valves:
This home-made adaptor works great to seat the beads:
Leaving the packing tape on was a bad idea:
I mounted the "red spot" next to the tire valve:
For anyone who wants to do it yourself, the tools cost about $200 where I
got most of mine from Harbor Freight, where those tools suck, but they do
What you need is:
o A dedicated bead breaker (the one with the mounter sucks even worse).
This tool is a pain to use but it breaks a bead in a couple of minutes.
You have to put a board on it because the base is too short.
o A bolted-in tire-mounting tool (you _must_ bolt it down!)
The bead breaker attachment on the mounter is nearly worthless.
o A static bubble balancer
o A set of tire irons (these aren't necessary, but are sometimes helpful
when you have a problem with the 6th and final bead)
o Vise grips - you need them - surprisingly - because the HF mounting tool
handle twists in your hands so the vise grips provide leverage to keep it
o A Schrader Valve Screwdriver (you need this to remove the insert so that
you can quickly fill the tire to set the beads during the final step)
o Dish detergent (everything is surprisingly easy when lubricated)
o Tire marking pen (to mark the inside sidewall after each rotation)
o Wheel weights (to static balance the wheel after mounting)
o Hammer (to tap the wheel weights into place)
o I have a valve-stem removal tool but it's not needed (just use a knife)
o Floor jack, wheel chocks, jack stands, lug wrench, torque wrench (to
remove and replace the wheels from the vehicle)
o Compressor, hoses, chucks, gauges (to seat the bead & fill the tire with
o Tires (Costco takes old tires for $1 each, plus sales tax)
o Wheel weights (it seems that 1 to 2 ounces seems to be needed most
o Valve stems (I kind of like the 0.453 diameter 1-1/2 inch steel ones)
I've considered a lot of hobbies to amuse myself while I ride this dirt ball around the Sun but I must admit that tire wrestling is not one of them. But hey, if it blows your skirt up, knock yourself out.
Usenet is a shared information source, sort of like a Potluck Picnic, where
each person tries to bring something of value to all to the picnic table.
Hence, every post is designed to add value for everyone, so I THANK YOU for
that purposefully helpful and very useful information about the Costco
The Costco near me _used_ to refuse to mount non-Costco tires, so I was
surprised that you said yours mounts non-Costco tires.
Armed with your purposefully helpful information, I called the local Costco
at (831)469-0961 x5 (other), x4 (auto), who confirmed EXACTLY what you just
This is great news, where I'll contribute this to the Potluck Picnic:
o $60 to mount four tires on four wheels (on or off the vehicle)
o $20 to dynamically balance four wheels (if they are off the vehicle)
o $22 to dynamically balance four wheels (if they are on the vehicle)
o $11 to repair a tire
o $1 to dispose of old tires (the guy said that's what they get charged)
o They won't let you ship tires to them; but you can bring them in.
o They won't mount tires older than 3 years (based on the date stamp)
o They will rotate & balance tires that are older than 3 years though
o You don¢t get the Costco-tire free lifetime balance & rotation though
o They will not touch tires below the 2/32" wear bars for any purpose
When I asked the Costco guy _when_ this started, the guy said they used to
work on non-Costco tires years ago, and then stopped, and now started it up
only about two years ago.
Just to be clear, and to ensure we're always adding value to the potluck
picnic that is Usenet, the empirical dynamic balance test is free, and
extremely easily done "at home".
You just drive the car at highway speeds.
o If you can't feel vibration, it's dynamically balanced (AFAIK).
Besides, with this new information you've kindly brought to the Potluck
Picnic which is Usenet, for $20 in toto, we can _check_ how well we
statically balanced the four wheels.
This is _great_ news you brought up that Costco does this for us!
o Thanks for bringing value for all in the Potluck Picnic that is Usenet
I agree with you on your facts of the Costco prices, and on most of your
logic (adults are funny in that facts are easy to agree on, as is rational
Your logic is that it's "easier" to let Costco do it all for you, where the
facts I'll contribute which affect the logic is that I've never been to
Costco tire center without standing on long lines, even if I get there at
opening time, so the _actual_ time is no where near 20 minutes for four
Obviously the actual time will vary greatly, but 20 minutes doesn't seem
rational to me for four tires at a typical Costco, which, I hope most
people know, isn't exactly known for short lines (e.g., even the gas
station lines are long, as are the food court lines, and the purchasing
lines, and even the line to ask a question of the eyeglass center or
Where on earth to you have a Costco which not only has no lines, but which
does the entire job in 20 minutes for four tires, where I can't even get to
the counter in that time frame, let alone have them do all the paperwork
and pay for it, etc. in that time frame?
As you're aware, I did a clutch a few months back, with the help of this
newsgroup, as I had to replace the flywheel, for example, which required
tools that I couldn't find at the local auto parts stores (the pilot
bearing pulling tools were too large to fit in the ID of the pilot
This newsgroup is GREAT for learning things, since there are helpful people
here who contribute to the potluck picnic something that EVERYONE can learn
My contribution is that the job is easy, and it takes about the same amount
of time (when you factor everything in) as having a shop do it, so you
don't do the job at home to save time.
You mostly do the job at home to learn, and to enjoy doing it, and to
relish in the _knowledge_ gained by doing things yourself, which is, after
all, a key purpose of doing _any_ repair by yourself.
As for savings, with this "new costco math", the savings, in 5 years, are:
o $450 at Costco for 30 tires minus $200 for tools = savings of only $250
If we add the dynamic balance check, the math becomes:
o $250 minus $20 = about $225 (I'm rounding numbers for easy math)
The key point to make is that there are _benefits_ to home repair
o One key benefit is that you _learn_ more about things
o Another key benefit is that you can do it any time you want to
o Another benefit is that you can do it more often when you do it yourself
o Another benefit is that you can "save" tires they won't repair (if you
want to, as it's your choice based on your decision tree)
o The best benefit is the satisfaction of self sufficiency
The cost benefit is always going to be there ... for example, the tools
almost always pay for themselves ... but that's not the main reason you do
home repair yourself.
The main reason is that you learn about and enjoy home repairs, and that
you have the convenience of doing the job the way you want the job done
(e.g., you use steel tire valves even if the tire shop doesn't use them).
Should I mention that traditionally the red spot is the "high" point of
the tire, and would match with the "low" point of a slightly-not-round
wheel, and the yellow dot is the "light" part of the tire, and matches
with the "heavy" part of the wheel, usually where the valve is? Nah,
that would be mean. :)
I have to thank you for contributing to the tribal knowledge here, where
Usenet is sort of like a Potluck Picnic, where everyone brings something of
value for the others.
For me, you helped me many times when I hit stumbling blocks, e.g., when I
didn't know how to get the clutch done, or when I didn't know how to
replace the cooling system, and others helped, for example, on the bimmer
where the CCV replacement was a bitch, etc., and for that I thank you all.
You also found GREAT information about brake pad friction material, e.g.,
the Michigan Police Cruiser Tests, where it's damn difficult to sort
through all the marketing BS that surrounds brake pads (where almost nobody
knows how to buy pads & shoes without falling prey to marketing BS, IMHO).
We've discussed polyetheramines (e.g., "techron" marketing) where I'm
allergic to marketing bullshit, and where Costco gas is as good as any gas
sold in terms of detergents, for example.
I'm all about facts, and then logical deductions based on those facts,
where we've discussed, for example, tire warranties in the past, where you
basically often don't get to use them due to the fine print.
Since I'm all about facts, and logic based on those facts, I generally
disagree with people who just make shit up, like the guys who think you can
get decent tire specs on the net (you just can't, where I wish you could,
but you can't "compare" tires by the real spec even if you got the $100,000
specs, simply because you'd need those $100,000 specs on all the tires
you're considering, which just isn't gonna happen realistically). So all
you have is what is molded onto the tire to go by (since tires are one of
the most bullshit marketing commodities on this planet, IMHO).
Lots & lots of people fall for marketing bullshit; but I try not to.
With respect to the math on you getting "free" mounting and balancing, it
depends, on course, on how much that "free" cost you, in that generally
costs are bundled when they're said to be "free", where I generally add up
the total cost, and not just the individual cost of cherry-picked items.
For example, I'd compare the total costs of a "free" mounting and balancing
by comparing the total cost at the shop, versus the total cost from buying
from SimpleTire and then having Costco mount and balance them (although
Costco charges $5 for balancing each time if you bring in your own tires).
We have a Wheelworks locally which conveniently does free repairs too, but
I prefer to do my own patchplug repairs at home simply for the satisfying
convenience of not having to bring the car or tire to them.
Plus, as you're aware, lots of people plug tires from the outside at home,
where, at home, I _still_ use the patchplug method, but it leaves the
option of a quick outside patch which is even more convenient than an
inside repair is (not that an inside repair is difficult since it's about
as easy as it gets).
You have a point that a LOT of people don't like to get their hands dirty
doing repairs, and tires are one of those things most people make excuses
for not doing, but the real reason they don't do it is the same reason they
don't clean toilet bowls.
If I made a living cleaning bathrooms, for example, (which, let's assume
for the example that I don't like doing that), then the last thing I'd want
to do when I get home, would likely be cleaning bathrooms.
But, personally, I like pouring hydrochloric acid in my toilet bowl to
clean the crud. It just feels good to watch the acid dissolve the calcium
deposits, so what we enjoy is up to us.
The only problem I have with most people's logic on why they don't do their
own tire mounting & balancing is that they really are just making excuses
for why they don't do something they just don't like doing.
At least you're honest that you just don't like doing it.
o Most people make up bullshit excuses for why they "can't" do it (IMHO).
I'm allergic to bullshit.
o It's fine if people _hate_ doing it (just like they hate doing homework)
o But most of the excuses they make for not doing it don't hold water
You should hear the bullshit excuses I hear from the grandkids, for
example, on why they can't do their homework.
The simple answer whenever someone says they can't mount and balance their
own tires/wheels is that they just don't like doing it. And that's ok.
What's not ok are the bullshit excuses the try to foist on us.
I fully agree with you that the equipment from HF is shitty.
o The tools work - but they're shitty.
I don't disagree with you on facts
o Adults almost never have problems agreeing on facts
In fact, there are plenty of articles on the net for how people tried to
MODIFY the shitty HF equipment to work better. These people use lathes,
grinders, welders, taps, etc., so they _know_ what they're doing, and the
fact is that they _still_ use the HF tools as the starting point.
For example, this guy highly modified the bead breaker:
Everything that he said was wrong with the bead breaker, is true.
o Even I modified it, slightly, with a piece of wood
The best part of the bead breaker, though, is that curved part, which is
fantastic; but the rest of the bead breaker sucks (but it works).
While he bolted down the bead breaker, I find that stepping on a piece of
foot-wide board parallel to the base works fine. This guy was more redneck
about fixing the flaws in the bead breaker, where the fact that people who
can weld and craft steel _still_ use the bead breaker is a testament to the
value of the curved part of the bead breaker tool from HF.
The tire changing tool, by way of contrast, is pretty good, except that the
bead breaker attachment to that tire changing tool is nearly worthless on
larger SUV tires (it works fine only on small economy car tires).
It's so easy to change tire with that tool that this guy does it in pajamas
and slippers, where I admit, I've done it barefoot a few times myself. :)
This guy did modifications of the HF tire changing tool using a lathe and
grinder and welding and tapping equipment, where you must clearly note that
EVERYONE is SUCCESSFUL with the stock HF tools, but everyone notes that
they are a bit flimsy with obvious design flaws.
Most people simply assume every tire _needs_ to be dynamically balanced,
IMHO, where I've found that a static balance seems to work just fine.
We've discussed dynamic balancing before, where I showed the team the
clever marketing pages in the past which show that there's a lot of
bullshit around dynamic balancing, along with a lot of good science.
When you need it you need it, and when you don't, you don't
o It's like penicillin
You either need penicillin, or you don't need penicillin.
o Taking penicillin when you don't need it, doesn't help anything
If your tires are balanced well enough to not vibrate, then balancing them
again isn't going to change antyhing just like taking penicillin for when
you're not sick isn't going to change anything about your health.
I don't even know of a shop that won't dynamically balance, where they have
to blance anyway, so they may as well dynamically blance (which will reduce
return visits, which are what cost them the most, I'm sure).
In summary, these are what I've learned, from doing 30 tires:
o It's easy to mount and static balance at home
o Anyone who says otherwise, likely has never done it (MHO)
o Almost everyone who says they can't do it, for exmaple, never did it
IMHO, most people are making lame excuses when they claim "why" they can't
do it, since it's easy to do at home.
The real reson most people don't do it is simply they don't like doing it.
o And that's OK.
At least you're honest in why you don't do it.
o I appreciate your honesty because I'm allergic to bullshit from others
who can't admit they don't like getting their hands dirty so they make up
all sorts of lame excuses why they can't do their homework.
I _like_ being self suffiient where I don't mind my hands being dirty
o They prefer having other people get their hands dirty
That's fine, as long as they're honest to themselves about it.
Oooops. The math may be off a bit as it was off the cuff above, but the
math isnt' the main reason you get satisfaction out of being self
sufficient, just as the math in the enjoyment of composting isn't in the
saving you might get from having a smaller garbage pail.
IMHO, if we want to talk savings, I suspect the real savings are that you
can choose any tire you like when you buy the lowest priced best-quality
tires at a reputable outlet such as "SimpleTire", which, alone, saves you a
ton of money where they don't charge sales tax or shipping most of the time
in addition to having great prices, and _then_ you can mount them yourself,
or, you can have Costco mount & balance them for $15, or, you can have
Costco just balance them for $5.
The point is that most people make excuses when the reality always seems to
be that they just don't like getting their hands dirty on this job, where
the main reason for doing a home repair like this is, IMHO, the
satisfaction of being self sufficient and in doing the job right (e.g.,
metal valves, heavy spot properly placed, fewest wheel weights, etc.).
There are other ancillary advantages, e.g., you can fix things when stores
are closed, you can do them in your pajamas without having to wait in lines
at the shop, you can fix things that they might not touch, e.g., nearer to
the shoulder than they might fix or more worn than they might touch, etc.,
all of which are adult decisions YOU can make, and not them (as long as
you're aware of the RMA guidlines which we all presumably are well aware
You can even patch a leak from the outside, if you do it at home, where
nobody here is likely to be insisting they never did that in their life!
In short, most of what I hear from people as to why they don't like doing
their homework is from people who have _never_ done it.
The ones who have never done it always seem to have the mnost excuses.
o When the fact is that it's trivially easy to mount/balance at home.
As far as I know, only Clare has done it, and he is clear that he doesn't
like doing it, particulrly with shitty equipment, where I don't disagree
and where I applaud his honesty.
Hi Sanity Claus,
I appreciate those comments, where, if you have a cite that backs up your
belief system, I think it would be useful to all, as Usenet is designed to
be a potluck picnic where each person adds value where they can.
Without further cites, I'd just note offhand that we have a looooooooong
thread on a.h.r, as I recall, on this topic of exactly what the red and
yellow spots mean, which can be _different_ for each manufacturer (and
which aren't always there).
For example, we've covered that the marks are generally most useful for
brand-new wheels (where the original match mounting marks are still
visible), and we've covered why the light spot is still generally the valve
area (all else being equal, of course), even though there's an "additional"
valve there, simply because the plug of missing steel is generally heavier
than the rubber & brass valve despite the very many old intuitive wives
tales to the contrary.
I'm all about facts, where we've looked at the cites in the past to
conclude that, in the absence of match-mounting marks on the wheel, the
best course for a starting point mount at home is the red spot goes next to
the valve if you have a red spot, and if you have only a yellow spot, as I
recall, it goes opposite the valve (but I'd have to dig up the cites to
doublecheck on that as most tires I've mounted have both the red and yellow
so I only use the red mark as my starting point).
In summary, if you can back up your belief system with a cite, I'll read
it, and if you want, I can dig up cites that back up my belief system since
my belief system is never imaginary - my belief system is _always_ based on
If facts show I need to _change_ my belief system, then I'll change it.
o But at the moment, the facts show the red dot goes next to the valve
(for stock steel wheels, and for most manufacturers' tires)
If you have facts that show otherwise, please cite them so we all benefit
from every post.
I'm always beholden to facts as I abhor imaginary belief systems.
Since I'm allergic to the intuition of old wives tales, but also since my
memory is not even close to perfect, I looked up the cites again, even
though I haven't read them in years, where it must be noted that the only
perfect cite will be one from Hancook, which I didn't find, so we have to
go on what we can find.
This is what Yokohama says about tire match mounting & balancing
"To facilitate proper balancing, Yokohama places red and yellow marks onthe sidewalls of its tires to enable the best possible match-mounting ofthe tire/wheel assembly. There are two methods of match-mounting Yokohamatires to wheel assemblies using these red or yellow marks:
Uniformity (red mark)
"If the point of minimum radial run-out is not indicated on a wheel
assembly, the weight method of match-mounting should be used."
Weight (yellow mark)
"When performing weight match-mounting, the yellow mark on the tire,
indicating the point of lightest weight, should be aligned with the valve
stem on the wheel assembly, which represents the heaviest weight point of
the wheel assembly. "
This is exactly what you said, and the exact opposite of what I had said,
so I appreciate that you bring up that my memory was faulty.
Moving on for confirmation... I'll tackle a couple more hits & respond, but
I wanted to THANK YOU for bringing up the point that my memory was faulty,
which I APPRECIATE greatly!
I'm always beholden to facts as I abhor imaginary belief systems.
Thanks for that reference where I found some references literally _stole_
my pictures, which I take as a compliment! You'll recognize my tires, and
my tools in some of the references below, for example.
As I noted prior, I could have sworn that we used to mount the red dot next
to the valve stem for basic stock steel wheels, where I see you found one
of the old references which mentioned that practice of aligning the valve
stem to the red dot.
I found others which both confirm and deny that assumption, so I have some
homework to do to catch up on what I thought I had known so I hadn't
bothered to look it up recently until now.
For now, we'll assume the meaning of the two colored dots are described
here where "red" === "uniformity" and where "yellow" === weight.
Bear in mind each manufacturer can use different colors, or no dots as
explained here in this canonical Bridgestone summary:
Given that reference which you kindly unearthed, I'm not sure which way to
go forward, bearing in mind these aren't custom wheels; they're plain jane
stock steel cheap wheels (but where I also work on the BBS alloy wheels).
Here are the articles I'll read to make the decision, all over again,
whether to align the stem to the red or yellow dot, and/or to set up a jig
for checking the high point and low point in radial runout, although, at
home, it would be only static.
This is the canonical publication which no longer seems to exist:
This seems to be a summary:
Red dot === valve stem Yellow dot === valve stem
o Mounting & custom wheel handling
Old method, red dot === valve stem New method, yellow dot === valve stem
o Bridgestone Tires Red & Yellow Dots
Red dot === valve stem (red dot supercedes yellow dot) Yellow dot === valve stem
o Yokohama mounting procedures
Red dot === not possible at home Yellow dot === valve stem
o Tire Rack match mounting
This explains my comment about OE wheels & tires most needing the dots.
o Red & yellow dots
Yellow dot === heaviest spot Red dot === lightest spot
o Continental "coloured dot" markings on car tyres
This one says there's no consistent color for weight but that there is a consistent color for unifornity (red).
o Match mounting
Red dot === valve stem (red dot supercedes yellow dot) Yellow dot === valve stem
o Match mounting
Red dot === valve stem (red dot supercedes yellow dot) Yellow dot === valve stem
My belief system is based on facts, where I've noticed that most people
seem to have imaginary belief systems, but where, when it's complicated,
then any belief system that works, is fine.
Hence, for now, I'm gonna stick with the old method of red dot === valve
stem, unless there is no red dot, and then yellow dot === valve stem,
unless we can unearth a definitive reference that soundly refutes those
Thanks for keeping an open mind, as you're the only other one on this ng,
that I know of, who has actually mounted & balanced a car tire themselves.
Does that mean only those who've done it in their driveway at home, or
does it also include the shop I've worked at for the last 12 years?
Either way, we normally use the yellow dot, not just because it's
"correct" in our little version of reality, but because everyone expects
it. Even if we miss by an inch or two, or the dot has worn off over time
(used tire), or if we get a tire brand that doesn't even use dots, the
balancer makes it all happy again. It's really not that critical.
Hi Sanity Clause,
It means different things depending on the question that the person is
If the question is a technical question about the proper final result in
mounting tires, such as where the colored dots go with respect to the valve
stem (or match mounting marks, which are generally obliterated in older
wheels), then it's a question that the pros can answer.
But if it's a question about using a Harbor Freight shitty tool, it's
likely NOT a question anyone can answer who hasn't used the Harbor Freight
I, for one, have used the Harbor Freight shitty tools, but most people who
are making up excuses for NOT doing tires at home, have NEVER done tires
anywhere, but even if they have, they've never done tires at home using the
HF shitty tools.
Having a pro try to answer those types of questions is sort of like having
a farmer in California try to answer why they urinate on their crops in
Two different use models, where the farmer in California has all the latest
mechanization and irrigation and tractor-fed fertilization, while the
farmer in India pisses and poops on his crops to get them to grow.
Worse, most of the people responding, except maybe you, me, and Clare, have
_never_ in their entire lives mounted a tire at home using the shitty
equipment that we're discussing here - where maybe even you and Clare have
never done that.
Remembering that I'm allergic to bullshit, all those people making up those
outlandish excuses for why they can't do it are just like my grandkids
making up outlandish excuses for why they didn't do their homework.
The honest answer is that they don't like changing tires at home.
o All the rest is pure bullshit, IMHO, if they've never done it.
I thank you for bringing up the fact that the yellow dot "can" be used,
where _most_ of the references Clare and I have been discussing say to use
it only if the red dot doesn't exist.
Sometimes facts are conflicting, where they seem to be conflicting here,
which is ok, as long as we're all aware that they conflict.
The facts come first, and then we deduce rational logic from those facts:
o Red is almost always the uniformity indicator
o Yellow is almost always the weight indicator
o Most cites (but not all say the red dot takes precedence over yellow
o Most cites (but not all) say to mount the valve stem to the dots in the
absence of match-mounting marks (which is almost always on older rims).
There's a confusing issue of weight of steel versus alloy, where it seems
that the presumed heavy spot moves 180 degrees between steel and alloy
because of the weight difference between the hole drilled for the valve,
and the valve itself.
It's not _that_ simple, but it's close to that simple.
o The whole point is to minimize added weight by good initial placement
In summary, I do appreciate that you have experience, because other than
Clare, the posters who made up excuses have never changed a tire at home,
so their excuses were based on nothing material.
I've changed 30 tires at home, where I can say a few things:
1. I mount the red dot to the valve stem on both steel & alloy
(but maybe I should re-think that based on what you & Clare say).
2. I have never failed to mount a tire, from puny 15 inch tires to larger
17 inch tires, where the SUV tires are the hardest due to the sidewalls, I
think, which are designed for heavier loads.
3. I static balance, which I admit is basic, but which seems to work in
that I don't get perceptible vibration, but I like Trader's information
that Costco now dynamically balances tires for only five bucks, which is a
So, moving forward, my plan is:
A. Buy tires at great prices online & have them shipped for free, to me.
B. Mount/Balance/Rotate/Repair them at home using HF shitty equipment.
C. If I feel vibration, then pay Costco $5 per tire to dynamically balance.
One question I'd like to ask you is whether you feel that an
_imperceptible_ vibration can cause damage?
No BS from me. I think for most people it is silly to DIY when the
payback is measured in decades. I have no interest in doing it.
I'm not sure if you have an air of superiority or are just arrogant.
Its the way you come across though.
Hi Ed Pawlowski,
I'm allergic to bullshit.
o Particularly from people who are afraid of doing the job themselves.
Hence, they have absolutely zero idea of what they're talking about.
o IMHO, they're all just like grade schoolers discussing Santa Claus, Ed.
Do you remember when Normal Schwarzkopf responded to a news reporter:
"Have you ever _been_ in a minefield?"
Some things, like changing tires at home, people are either afraid, or ill
informed, or they don't have the money for tools, or for storage, or they
don't want to get their hands dirty, or whatever, so they make up all sorts
of lame idiotic excuses for why they can't do something as trivial as
replace a tire at home.
The real answer is that everything they say is just pure bullshit
o Because they've never even once done it in their entire lives.
They're just spouting bullshit ... like that idiotic reporter was.
o I apologize if I'm too blunt and factual and honest for you.
Hi Rod and Steve,
We go way back, mostly on the Apple newsgroups, where you know I speak
valid verifiable facts and that I don't make shit up and that I'm allergic
to bullshit from people who make claims out of their ignorant asses.
You both are well aware that, never once, in thousands of posts, have my
facts ever been materially wrong(1) since I simply don't make shit up.
If I said I did it, then I did it, and if I said it worked, then it worked.
In _my_ experience, with 30 tires, a good static balance appears to work
rather well by the measurement of lack of perceptible vibration at speed.
However, given the new information kindly supplied by Trader about the
Costco $22 triple check on balance, I'm going to take the next set of
wheels to Costco to ask them if they can triple-check my work.
Only then will we have the facts of how different the results are in the
specify set of tires tested.