Cylinder Head Bolt

You'll have to take the head off again to get at the bolt. First question, is the bolt protruding from the block, is it reasonably flush with the block, or is it more than about one thread below the block?

Rob Graham

Stud extractor or Mole grips.

Head off again, but it should come out easily, if the bolts and block threads were clean before assy. I,e, bolts screwed freely into the block. If it's below the surface you might be able to unscrew it, using a couple of scribers or sharp points. Another alternative is to drill it with a l/h drill bit. Chances are that it will unscrew as you drill it. If you're lucky and it's above, pliers or Mole grips. Quite often fingers are good enough. Mike.

Thanks very much Rob, Dave & Mike, the broken piece was just below the top of the block and I managed to turn it out with a center-punch and hammer, crisis over !! PS I've learn't my lesson here, NEVER re-use old head bolts, it's worth getting new ones.

Nige.

Just before the bolt yields the bolt becomes more easy to turn. That's the point when you should stop turning!

Ideally, stop just before it goes like that ;-)

if you've got the proper tool i.e. angular torque dial gauge you shouldn't have a problem with the bolts snapping. except where you've re-used old ones now the rover 200 series uses bloody great big long ones as they bolt both half's of the engine together, you can re use them if the length of them is correct.