F.A.O Adam re: coolant leak

Hi Adam,
I was following you thread on your coolant leak. But have lost it in my wonderful reader.
I spotted the housing assembly on the eurocarparts website for 90.something
they have a 25% discount code on the front of there page I think so works out to around 67. Non genuine but state oe quality so should fit fine, my experience of eurocarparts parts is all fits and works as should. F|or the difference in price I would try it. Although ford engines are quite fussy in general but this is just a plastic housing so should be fine. Sparks coils etc should use genuine.
Only thing is it doesn't list plastic part/cover for the thermostat bit its just the main housing. I would have thought if it should all go together the thermostat cover on this housing ok.
Having done this job myself its easily done. I would drain the coolant first from the lower passenger side of the rad is a screw to undo and drain off. Flush it a few times while you at it.
Then undo the 3 bolts on the thermostat housing, clean up the block surface and reaplce. Make sure the thermostat goes the right way round and the air bleed valvue is at the 12 oclock position.
Although as you are not 100% this is where the leak is. I would investigate this more before shelling out on all that incase its in vain.
If you cant pressure test around 30, I would do this as the dye test could fail. What we used to do was get a uv dye pop it in the coolant expansion tank, run it to temp. Then using a uv light we would look and 8/10 times spot the leak. Very effective and cheap. The light and uv dye comes in at under 10 and is safe to leak in the tank after but we usually flush and refil with new coolant. Be sure to remove cambelt cover to check that water pump area. The seal on that is known to go, also the thermo housing, heater maxtrix pipes and all the usual spots.
Hope this helps.
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