Fault code reader for Renault 1.9 dTi

Hi,
Does anyone know if there is a low cost fault code reader for a 1998 Renault Megane Scenic RT dTi 1.9 engine. It keeps going into 'limp' mode until ecu
is reset.
Thanks to all,
Derek
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

it'll have obdII try argos product code 740/2742 , it'll be basic but should be enough for what you want.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

opps meant to include a link http://tinyurl.com/67ppfx
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Not necessarily, as it's the dTi.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If it's >1996, as I understand* it needs to have OBD-II...
*and I'm often wrong. ;-)
--
The DervMan
www.dervman.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

2003 for diesels
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

when exactly does it enter LOS mode?
Turbo actuators are sods on these- they over-boost then the ECU goes into LOS.
Tim..
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tim.. wrote:

Thanks to all who've replied so far.
I'm tempted to go for the Argos one since if it doesn't work they'll take it back - I didn't define what I meant by low cost - just not Renault's full 'testbook' or whatever they call it! The 100 quid version seems to be a better buy as it does 'live' data?
When I'm saying it goes to LOS, it has the symptoms of that (see below), but no dash warning light (bulb is working!).
I've been having a good look at things. The engine 'sounds' fine and smooth - smooth is funny term for a Renault dTi but hopefully YKWIM! Engine appears to be limited to just over 3000rpm, and under load runs out of breath before that - clearly no turbo happening. Last night removing battery power for a while would restore normal engine behaviour, until driven for a short while. It MAY well have been after some boost that this happened, but it now seems to be stuck in the 'limited' state.
I'm trying to use Haynes 3395 for this, but it doesn't seem good for the F9Q engine,in particular. I'm not seeing a lot of evidence of vacuum activity within the engine, but the brakes seem fine, so am going to look at this next. An intermittant problem doesn't suggest that a hose has come off, but I suppose there could be a split somewhere? The normal 'sigh' noise you hear on switching off is not happening.
Turbo actuator - I assume this is the wastegate actuator on the dTi? Is it vacuum powered via a solenoid? How would I test it (fault code reader?!) Access looks a little awkward as it's round the back of the engine under the dashboard - remove air hoses, I assume?
Many thanks,
Derek
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Derek wrote:

OK, no splits that I can find in the vacuum hoses. There is a large bore hose and a very small one coming from the camshaft driven vacuum pump. if I clamp the main hose with pliers, and remove the small hose (which goes to the EGR solenoid), I don't feel much if any vacuum when I block the small hose with my finger - should I? Haynes; "As a guide, after one minute, a minimum of 500 mm Hg should be recorded." at idle with a gauge on the main hose.
Is it reasonable to conclude that the pump is the culprit, or could there be other explanations?
Thanks
Derek
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Likely. With the engine running, you should feel noticable vacuum on the end of the pipe from the pump, but a leaking brake servo could also be the cause.
Easiest way to check, is feel how much vacuum you get at the small pipe with the servo connected, then disconnect the main pipe from the servo. Block the big pipe with one finger, then feel how much vacuum you get on the small pipe. If you get noticeably more on the small pipe, then the servo is the culprit.
Of course, the proper way to check would be using a vacuum gauge.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.