Fiesta slipping feeling when cornering in first

Hi,

My fiesta (96, 1.3 petrol endura-e manual, newer shape) has recently had a new clutch (hydraulic master and slave) and I've got a couple of niggles...

1) when pulling out of say a junction from standstill and turning (mainly right) in first gear there is a "slipping" feeling/sound (at low speed so not wheel spin!). It happens about a third of the way around the turn and lasts for a second or two. The clutch seems ok as there is no slipping when starting "straight" - it will even pull away in third if I try. Slow cornering doesn't produce the slipping.

2) when cold, first can be difficult/spongy to engage.

I don't trust the garage that replaced the clutch as they were expensive (£350 ?!) and they broke the cap from the top of the gearbox breather - this only became apparent a week later when I noticed oil on the outside of the gearbox. I got the garage to replace the breather (they kindly didn't charge!) but they only checked the gearbox oil level after I pestered them - supposedly ok.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

Cheers, AndyC

Reply to
AndyC
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I take it you know how to drive? It's wheelspin because you are accelerating too hard or releasing the nice new clutch too fast. Or a combination of both. It will do it when turning left too although it depends on the road surface.

That's a problem with your gearbox!

There is no proof they broke anything. So they did it to shut you up. Most people don't go poking about under cars so why would you notice oil over a gearbox unless it was pouring off? I bet you were messing about and broke it yourself. For what you paid, it was reasonable. Try the main dealer prices and lack of expertise.

Learn how a front wheel drive car works, don't poke about with things you know nothing about or try to fix it if it isn't broken, learn to drive correctly and leave the car to the experts.

You did ask!

Reply to
Brian

Yes, he asked, but didn't require you to be such a prick. Go, f*ck off.

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

The chances are because the clutch is so new, you're giving it a bit too much gas in the corners with the usual amount of clutch you'd give before it was replaced. This will resort in vastly larger amount of torque being applied to the wheels and they're probably breaking traction. Does the car corner properly, or does it appear to head 'straight on' more?

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

I concur with Sandy Nuts' reply, assuming I've understood you correctly.

I'm not sure I understand this. Are you referring to the gears or the clutch or both being difficult? If the gears are difficult to engage and the clutch pedal feels spongy it could have air in the hydraulics causing insufficient clutch release and clutch drag, which could result in awkward gear changes. If this is what you mean then it will need to be properly bled.

As for the cost, a mate of mine just had his 1.8D Fiesta's clutch and slave cylinder replaced and it was around 265 quid, so yours probably wasn't that expensive at 350 quid with a new master cylinder taken into account.

I don't like the design much where the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing, it makes it a bloody expensive job if the clutch is fine but the slave leaks! It also IIRC shares its fluid with the brakes, surely a daft, penny pinching idea.

ISTR on my old '80 Talbot Solara the clutch slave cylinder was mounted outside the bell housing in a place you could change it in about 15 minutes with a socket and a spanner! That's one thing I miss about old cars- easy DIY maintenence! A complete engine replacement on a MkII Escort is probably quicker and easier than changing a clutch slave on a Fiesta!

Morse

Reply to
Morse

The reason the cylinder is inside the bell housing is because it's combined with the release bearing. The consequent elimination of any mechanical links or pivots gives a much smoother, lighter clutch action.

A common reason for failure is that the brake and clutch fluid has not been changed at regular intervals. The moisture the fluid collects corrodes the internals of the system leading to seal failure.

Using a common reservoir for brake and clutch fluid is not new; I can remember cars of the sixties that had it!

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Problem is that the buyers of new vehicles rarely keep them long enough to need a clutch so they don't care what it costs to replace.

Consumers should demand FWD transmission designs that don't require £200 labour for removal of drive shafts and the splitting of the gearbox from the engine to fit a £50 clutch plate. They had it sussed years ago just can't be arsed to design it right, it doesn't cost the car maker anything to get it wrong and their dealers are happy as they keep busy and make money by poor design that makes jobs takes longer. My 70's Datsun Cherry had a clutch that just lifted out though a cover on the top of the housing. Just had to pull output shaft out of transfer gear and undo the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. At age 18 and having never done such a job before I did it in 1 hour. Took 1/2 of that time making the slide hammer. An experienced mechanic should be able to do it in 1/2 hour. £50 plate, £25-£100 labour depending on how much of a rip off your garage is.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

It feels more at the "stick end", the clutch feels normal and there is no transmission noise. It only happens once or twice a week and clears after a couple of minutes driving so I'm probably being oversensitive to the feel of the old dear.

The problem is that with being a newbie driver, you get seasoned drivers (read: the lads at work) saying "ffff, yuv been conned there like!" so its great to have an informed group like this.

cheers

andy

Reply to
AndyC

I had one of them! 100A model, brilliant design that no one picked up on, even Nissan.

Reply to
SteveB

Informed group?

ffff, yuv been conned there like!

Reply to
PC Paul

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