focus alternator

Didn't Dave Baker have exactly this problem this time last year? I can't remember what the answer was though.

& come to think of it are you sure they've sold you the right alternator with the AltMon & AltCon connections, I'd expect it to be charging at over 14V.

Mebbe the battery is screwed too and won't accept a charge?

-- Stuart

Could be a faulty relay. The ignition light on most modern fords is controlled by a relay, which is operated by the alternator. The relay is also used to power high power accesories, which only work when the engine is running (ie. heated front screen).

There's every chance that with the old alternator dying, it's toasted the relay in the process.

What's the vehicle details, as I've currently got acess to Ford TIS.

LOL

Good memory that man. My warning light came on after lots of short trips to the village with fan and screen heaters on which discharged the battery. The car rarely gets a run because I work from home. An overnight trickle charge fixed the battery but the light stayed on for another couple of weeks and then suddenly went out again for no apparent reason while I was driving one day and hasn't come back on since. Maybe the OP's will do the same. Perhaps something inside the electrickery needs time to reset itself although why I have no idea. Modern car electrickery is a complete mystery to me. I just do the mechanical bits.

The central locking is playing silly buggers now too although apparently that's also a well known Focus malady. Sometimes it locks the doors when I'm driving and sometimes it unlocks them when it's parked. The other day I was walking from the house to the garage and there was a clunk as I passed the car and it unlocked itself. Perhaps it thought I was coming to take it for a drive. Bit like a puppy running to get its leash when you say walkies. At least in two years it's never failed to start and go and nothing has broken or fallen off it so all in all I'm fairly happy.

-- Dave Baker

Dave Baker (Dave snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

I seem to recall that (x) number of "clean" start-run-stop trips will clear a fault code in (at least some) engine management systems.

That's not massively conclusive, is it?

as far as I can make out, it's a Y plate 1.4 with an 80 amp alternator chassis numbers and the like I'd have to check out because the car is driving along quite nicely but that damn light just doesn't go out :(

Just checked the wiring diagram.

It's a 3-pin multiplug, two wires go direct to the ECU, and the other is a permanent live feed from Fuse 10 (which is a 10A on pre 08/2000, and a 1A after that build code) in the battery junction box (fuse box under the bonnet). There doesn't seem to be any relay in the circuit, so everything must be controlled by the ECU (which will probably talk to the Central Timer Module to control all the major loads). And having checked the instrument cluster diagram, there is a datalink from the ECU. Check that the fuse is OK, and failing that, it could be the fault codes need reset.

If you want, I can send you a copy of the wiring diagram, but it won't be until tomorrow night.

the system is known as a smart charge and is controlled by the PCM the output 13.9 is ok check the three thin wires for corrosion/breaks normally just about 2-3" back from the alternater

PS Oh and Fuse 10 in the internal box (OTOH) powers the regulator in the alternator.

Tim..

No- on the Focus, the ECU controls alternator output by varying the signal to the reg. As such, its not self regulating.

Tim..

ah nuts apparently it's either of 2 things both of which will come in at around the £600 mark

so, unsurprisingly, this ain't gonna happen more news when I hear about it

Odds are it's the wire. Anyway it'll happily self regulate if it's not getting the boost signal.