I don't think so. I can't find a decent pic of a seicento servo, but this from a clio clearly shows the adjustment I referred to. I'm confident the seicento will have something very similar.
tinyurl.com/6f3xrvz
Steve
You may well be right; the thing is, you said "There has to be an adjustment", but many (most?) modern cars don't have one, so it's possible the OP's doesn't.
Chris
I don't accept that claim. Firstly because it's inconceivable that manufacturers wouldn't build in a means of setting up to the correct tolerance, and also because every servo that I see pics of when searching seems to have the same or very similar arrangements.
Steve
LOL! - whilst claiming to be fitting a brand new unit from Fiat! It is not hard to imagine such a trick - would cost the garage nothing and leave the customer thinking how generous they were - but I believe what he says and the master cylinder is easy to get at and view - so easy to see it it looks the same.
It wouldn't surprise me at all if this car didn't have adjustment. The brake & clutch mechanism involves a LH drive conversion kit to transfer the force from the RH pedals over to the brake master cylinder and the clutch cable on the left - giving a lot of extra scope for wear, play and failure I'd have thought. It is the first car I've seen with such a nasty cheap method of producing a car for the UK market.
Wonder if they have a set-up procedure for the master cylinder.
I can't see any manufacturer having a perfect car which the master cylinder will fit exactly each and every time. Could be shimmed.
Why would you need to? It's less expensive to have no means of adjustment. You only need to ensure that there is always some clearance - perhaps 1 or 2mm. The difference in pedal position to when the brakes start to operate between different vehicles would be negligible.
Well, Fords don't have them, and the last m/c I changed was my Son's Beemer, which also didn't have any adjustment.
Chris
VW Golf springs to mind.
You ned to because it's absolutely vital to have some clearance, or you get the OPs problem. Manufacturers have to allow for a range of variables in manufacture, including sourcing parts from different suppliers, fitting different m/cyl to different models in a range, changes from year to year in one part or another. the list is endless. All of these things can affect the clearance. There has to be a way of setting up.
Excuse me, mondeo, focus and Ka do, as do some beemers and volvos I looked at this evening. Which fords are you referring to?
Steve
Define modern - by a very strange co-incidence mate was descibing this very problem on his ten year old Audi
I'm sorry but you don't seem to have a clue about how disk brakes work. They have no adjusters because the don't need them. The design of a disk brake makes them self adjusting. Otherwise one would have to continuously adjust brakes as the pads and disks wear. Applying pressure to the brake causes the slave piston to compress the pads onto the disk. When the pedal is released the cylinder detracts slightly leaving adequate clearance between disk and pad. As the pad wears the extrusion of the cylinder takes up the slack but the rebound when the brake us released always leaves the same clearance hence the brakes take up the wear of the pad.
If the brake us binding then usually there's avproblem with the slave cylinder. On recon brakes this is often pitting and corrosion that the remanufacturer has not repaired properly. The corrosion stops the cylinders from retracting as they should.
I suggest you read the thread before commenting furrther.
Steve
Steve Firth gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
Umm, Steve... The question was whether the actuator rod between pedal/ linkage and master is adjustable. Not whether the wheel end is adjustable.
Umm, Steve... It's definitely the master. That's all been gone through.
Brakes dragging?
I've read this thread with interest, having had dragging brakes (with brake pedal feeling too high) on my 1996 VW Transporter (disc brakes all round). This happened immediately after I changed the brake fluid.
I bleed the brakes again, this time taking care to pump the pedal more slowly in the process. That cured the problem, coincidence or not.
The advice about pumping slowly was in the workshop manual for my Nissan.
John
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember strassenbaum saying something like:
It's not new, that method. Istr the early Fiesta or Polo did something similar.
Grimly Curmudgeon gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
It's far from unknown. My Saab's like that - to do it "properly" would have required the heater box and (slightly more difficult) the cylinder head to be moved to the other side of the car. '70s 2cvs did it for the rod throttle.
Done properly, it's not the end of the world.
Isn't the MkI Golf and Scirocco the same, too?
Yep. Polo wasn't, which is why UK ones pre Mk3 didn't have a servo- the master cyl was in the right place, but no room for a servo. Mind you, it didn't need one if the brakes were in good order.
The Golf/Scirocco mechanism was criticised for the amount of give. It was adjustable though. The clutch cable *always* used to pull through the bulkhead too- most cars had repair plates fitted.
For a while, a tuner (Autocavan, IIRC) did a much more substantial upgraded brake linkage. Quite expensive at the time, very hard to find now.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.