Omega 2.5v6 MOT fail

Fast idle results:

CO: 2.35% (max 0.30%) Fail HC: 183 ppm (max 200) pass Lambda: 0.95 (0.97/1.03) Fail

I thought the engine was running rich since the mpg has dropped but the garage said it's lean but I though CO high and Lambda low was rich. Which is it? It was the receptionist I spoke to not the tester, I picked it up at lunchtime.

My second question is what could be causing it. At a guess I'd suspect a leak either in the intake or the exhaust and I think the exhaust is blowing a bit but the receptionist said the tester didn't note an exhaust leak other than a minor one in the back box.

It's running about a third down on mpg but I don't have an engine management fault light on when it's running. It runs rough from cold and when hot still so I don't think it's a temp sensor. I would have expected a light if it was a plug, lead or the coil because it's got knock sensors.

It's 14 years old and it looks as though it's time to scrap it but I wondered if anyone has any suggestions first.

Reply to
rp
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exhaust manifold gasket failure is the common fault and may well be yours, Coolant temp. sensor or connection is common too. however it should not run noticeably rough , so first check should be the simple stuff, like plugs, leads, compressions, etc.

alternatively just ditch it.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

If it's the manifold gasket, just see the sound advice below.

You will be glad you did. Changing these gaskets is an engine out job.

JB

Reply to
JB

Wouldn't those be likely to turn the engine management light on though?

Are the emissions results telling me it's running rich or lean please?

That seems likely at the moment.

Reply to
rp

According to the guys on the Omega Owners Forum it's possible to do it without taking the engine out and you can also get to it by taking the head off.

Reply to
rp

I've just been out in it and it's running a lot better this morning. It's also warmer than has been for a while so that points towards a coolant temp sensor. That's failed before but it ran fine when hot that time but it could have failed more this time.

Reply to
rp

Agreed it _is_ possible, but you are then into *serious* gynaecology territory (you need quadruple-jointed fingers 10" long to reach some of the fasteners! As for a head off, that starts getting expensive too as you may as well do the belts/tensioners etc while you're in there. These are among the reasons why I moved away from Vauxhall after many happy years of Carlton Estate ownership (2.0 and 3.0L). The Omega wasn't the best motor with owner maintenance in mind. I went the BMW route: E34 Touring followed by E36 Touring.

JB

Reply to
JB

High CO means rich.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The belts/tensioners are about due anyway, that's the only reason I'm considering it. I don't have the funds to replace it but I can change bits as funds allow and I don't need it for a daily commute.

Reply to
rp

Thanks, I thought so but it's nice to have confirmation. Just been to the docs and it's ruining better as the day has warmed up so it may just be the coolant temp sensor. Even that's not easy to get to since it's at the back of the plenum.

Reply to
rp

CO reading is high so it's running rich.

CO is a measure of how much fuel is being burned and HC is a measure of how much fuel is getting into the exhaust unburned. As HC is not excessive it means that the combustion process is burning the air/fuel mix properly so it's unlikely to be an ignition or internal mechanical fault but the high CO indicates that too much fuel is being injected.

Therefore it could be the lambda sensor, coolant sensor or indeed an exhaust leak tricking the lambda sensor into thinking it's running lean and so injecting more fuel. Check the hot and cold resistance of the coolant sensor in a pan of water first.

Reply to
Dave Baker

But the HC may actually be very high leaving the engine, but the reading at the tailpipe is lower because of the catalytic converter in between.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

I'm curious about running the car now, knowing it's failed the MOT. It's safe (unless there's other things wrong), but do the emissions mean it can't be run on the road?

Reply to
GB

"GB" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Here we go again...

No, the old test certificate is valid until the expiry date on it.

However, it _may_ be a C&U offence to run a vehicle with emissions above the applicable limit.

Reply to
Adrian

Correct , its failed the mot its not roadworthy

Reply to
steve robinson

With this all been logged on the system what happens with a failed test a few months before the expiry of an existing certificate?

Maybe a corrosion problem and you fixed it but didn't retest it?

Is it flagged to Plod as a fail?

Reply to
The Other Mike

What's "roadworthy" mean then, complying with ?Construction and Use regulations?

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Reply to
Mark

What's "roadworthy" mean then, complying with ?Construction and Use regulations?

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Reply to
Mark

What's "roadworthy" mean then, complying with ?Construction and Use regulations?

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Reply to
Mark

The Other Mike gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

The old certificate is valid until expiry.

The old test is still valid.

They'll see that there's been a failed test, if they look for the test history, but the car will show as having a current MOT.

Or maybe it failed on a bald tyre. Is it any more or less legal if it failed the test to if it didn't go in for it?

Reply to
Adrian

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