Gauge of steel sheet for body/floor welding for MOT standards.

======================= Isn't that (0.06mm) a bit thin? I've just measured a bit of 'Zintec' I use occasionally and it's about 1.5mm. Maybe I overdo things?

Cic.

Whatever the rules are, it'd be moderately logical to use whatever thickness of steel makes a repair no weaker than the existing structure, and does not add excessive stiffness so that the ends break off.

I think you mean 0.6, no?

Steve

Lol, i hope not. Tin foil anyone :-)

Even 0.6 is a little thin. I'd go with 1mm roughly, but usually whatever is there already. If you go thinner you'll have it weakening the structure and if you go thicker you will stress the welds and other areas around it by it being stiff. To what extent this matters depends on the location and existing design- hence stick with original.

J

The message from "aussie bongo" contains these words:

Don't you mean 0.6mm?

Still marginally thicker than the stuff they made my 2CV out of...

Ian

============================ You're probably right about modern car bodywork although I would expect a bit thicker for floor / chassis work.

Most of my work was done a different generation of cars - 1960s and early

1970s when some cars were still built from solid steel rather than surplus Heinz Beans tins.

Cic.

Assuming you mean 0.6mm, you must be bloody good welder to plate effectively with that!

I use 1mm, and prefer 1.5mm for chassis work. Anything less takes a lot of skill to weld, as well as being (IMO) dubious for strength.

Old panels make good repair material as long as they're sound; I often use bits of old roof, door and bonnet!